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Prophesy Wall
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Book of Prophesy Var., The T 
Breaking the Sabbath S 
Caging the Zealot S 
Conditional Bliss S 
Elizabeth Blue Moss S 
Equanimity S 
Gordian Knot S 
Grumpy Old Men S 
Harbingers S 
Harsh Reality S 
Misfit Prophets S 
Mystic Dictator S 
Non-Technical Church Socks T 
Past Lives S 
Presence S 
Remains to be Seen S 
Roofs of Jericho, The S 
Secrets of Fatima, The S 
Ship of Fools S 
Soffit of Jericho, The S 
Softscrub TR 
Sticky Revelations S 
Technical Knee-Highs S 
Thieves Karma S 
Unknown S 
Visionaries, The S 
Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) T,S 
Wooden Hammer T 

Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: First retro bolted ascent: Todd Goss, Jerry Howard
Page Views: 2,035
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Whatever Happens...Happens

Description 

{Perin's great sport description} Climb large, varnished edges on mostly less-than-vertical terrain. Two short sections of vertical or slightly overhanging rock keep things interesting. The crux is between the penultimate and last bolts. After the last bolt bear right to the anchors above the roof/arch. Rappel off or continue up the second pitch of The Roofs of Jericho.

There is one perfect hand jam, and a couple of places for tight hands jams. Some of the holds are intricately shaped and look somewhat delicate.

Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists this route as 90 feet long. However, when I reached the chains I was about two feet short of the half mark on a 70 meter rope, which would indicate about 110 feet (allowing for the knot). Note that the rappel line is well to the right of the route line and ends on higher ground than the start of the route. There appeared to be sufficient rope remaining in the 70 meter to indicate that a 60 meter rope would work also for the rappel. {end Perin's great description}

Sadly this route was bolted over after an all gear FA was made in 1996. The name the retrobolters gave it reflects their true ethics of the crag, which is sadly overbolted.
If you have a rack and want to climb it w/out clipping bolts (it's the exact same line) bring many small and medium sized cams along with the standard rack up to #4 camalot. Small nutz & slings were helpful as well.

I do remember the start being a bit spicey, with a slung chickenhead or 2 then we(Pete VanSlooten and I)climbed to and belayed from the same ledge as Roofs of Jericho, but used gear for the belay (bolts now grace this ledge). We then climbed up and left following a chimney finishing on low angle patinas/crack system. Walkoff around the back heading north then wrap around to the base of the wall (south).

Location 

There is a light-colored, smoother-looking area right about the middle of Prophesy Wall. This route starts on the vertical bulge (not quite a pillar) that delimits the left side of the smoother-looking area. This is the first line of bolts to the left of the smoother area, the second line of bolts is Ship of Fools, 5.10b, which has a 3-chain rap anchor about 60 feet up.

Protection 

12 bolts, hangers-and-chain anchor. Note that Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah lists 11 bolts. The first bolt is low and kind of useless; like the rest of them...... perhaps it was added later.

Gear: Doubles on everything to #2 Camalot. Singles on #3 & #4 Camalot. A triple set up to #.75 Camalot is very nice. Full set of nuts w/ focus on smaller sizes, slings helpful.


Photos of Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) Slideshow Add Photo
<em>Whatever Happens...Happens</em> on a cool October day.
Whatever Happens...Happens on a cool Octo...
The rarely seen two-butt shot.
The rarely seen two-butt shot.

Comments on Whatever Happens...Happens (aka. Watermelon Wishes and 40oz dreams) Add Comment
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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 7, 2007

Tyler, did you name it? Wanna be listed as the FA? I'd be happy to edit it. Or, if you like, I'll just assign the route to you and you can edit the description and other information as you see fit.
By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This route was excellent (on sport). Made the mistake of leading it last in my group. Therefore I had to clean the route on rappel. This was pretty tough. I recommend sending up a second-er behind ya to grab the gear. Good climb though! Maybe one day I'll try it on trad.
By Darren Dash Robinson
From: Cedar City, Utah
Dec 23, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seemed more like a 5.8 with a couple 5.9 cruxes, but nonetheless it was a great climb. Beware of lots of rope drag.