|Type:||Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c C2 [details]|
|FA:||FFA: Chad Suchoski ca. 2006 (toprope)|
|Submitted By:||W. Spaller on Jan 14, 2009|
|Comments on Whatchamadigit Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By W. Spaller
Mar 14, 2009
|Finally got back to finishing this thing on aid and now I must say i agree with my initial rating of C2. Definately bring small brass nuts. Now i need to work on freeing it.|
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jan 2, 2013
The route is actually called the "Whatchamadigit crack".
I was the one who placed the bolt with gear backup anchor at the top and did the first successful TR back somewhere around 2006 or so. I've tried to lead it on gear, but it's tricky to place adequately so as not to keep bouncing off the wall to the right when you fall. As far as I know it's never had a successful free accent on gear. That would considerably up the game as far as difficulty goes. Careful aiding the crack as well, a fall would certainly send you skipping off the wall of Test Piece.
As it is, the general consensus is that it goes at a solid 5.13a.
By Evan Wisheropp
Apr 11, 2015
|I belayed Will when he aided it. I remember he placed a pink tricam for the final piece before the anchor and fell down to the slab. Very exciting!|