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What was your most proud climbing moment 2010?
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By John Maguire
From Boulder, CO
May 10, 2011
Bastille Crack Final Pitch
leading spiral in vail!

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By RockinGal
From Boulder CO
May 10, 2011
Squamish Buttress was the highlight of 2010 for me. Did the Sonnie Trotter variation at the top, quality 5.9.

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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
May 10, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!
The Casual Route

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 10, 2011
Bucky
Hank Caylor wrote:
Sobering up and staying sober, climbing is the easy part.


I was thinking of posting something, but your accomplishment makes onsighting a "hard" route pretty petty in comparison. Congrats man.

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By J. Broussard
From CordryCorner
May 10, 2011
Young Good Free Face, 11b
Finally added pitches 2,3&4 of T2 to my repertoire.

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By Pablo-Roberts
From Prescott, Arizona
May 10, 2011
Storm over on Toms Thumb
First Ascent of Elephante, 5.8- around pinnacle peak park on thanksgiving day.

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By Keith Earley
From Boulder, Colorado
May 10, 2011
Unknown at Golden Cliffs
2010 is when I started outdoor climbing, so there were many firsts. My first lead, first multipitch, and first trad lead occurred within a couple months. My favorite climbing moment in 2010 was my first climb in Boulder, which happened to be a free solo of the third flatiron. It was my first (and last, so far) freesolo, and it was a good experience because now I have little to no fear when when leading with runouts.

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By Tanner Wise
May 11, 2011
12b at turtle wall, st.george
working my .12a project and good, good times in the great outdoors with my friends

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By Culver
From Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2011
top of Blodgett's
erikwellborn wrote:
Getting laid. A bunch. Oh yeah, I managed to get the crack clean at the rock gym in Colorado Springs. That was kinda cool!

You got the crack! Holy crap! That is awesome.
My best moment was not dying on a death route at Garden of the Gods...

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By Rick Carpenter
From Banner Elk, NC
May 11, 2011
Dey Took Yer Jeb!!!
I began climbing in 2010 so my best moment would have to be my first lead climb. "pay it forward" at the new.

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By Rick Carpenter
From Banner Elk, NC
May 11, 2011
Dey Took Yer Jeb!!!
CJ Oels wrote:
I would have to say that my most proud climbing moment in 2010 was not on Sierra granite but Andean ice! I ventured South of the Equator on my first trip to South America to visit Peru, Bolivia and Chile. After an amazing visit to Machu Picchu and the Northern end of Lake Titicaca in Peru, I crossed into Bolivia to pursue high altitude mountaineering climbs. After successful ascents of Pomerape, Parinacota and Bolivia's highest peak, Sajama at 21,522 feet I ventured to Chile for some time on the beach! Upon my return to La Paz, Bolivia I grew restless with a desire to climb again during my final week in the country. Back in the States, I had watched a video of Bolvian guide Eduardo Mamani free soloing up the South-East face of the beautiful Andean pyramid Pequeno Alpamayo...now, I found myself in this beautiful country with a little more than a weekend left and this video came back to my mind and I decided I would repeat his effort and climb, "La Ruta Directa" I set up my logistics and transportation to Lago Tuni and then enjoyed a fun Friday night in La Paz with friends. My driver arrived early in the morning Saturday and it was not long before we pulled into the tiny village of Tuni below the lake. After nearly an hour of conversation with a few local boys, I shouldered my pack and departed the village on my way to base camp. The Bolivian countryside near Condoriri is nothing short of spectacular! After a few hours, I arrived at Chiar Kota the most amazing basecamp I have ever seen! After setting up camp and getting some dinner, I made an unsuccessful attempt at sleeping, too amped on adrenaline to sleep. I had spoken to several people about the mountain and ultimately decided to abandon my attempt at the Direct Face route in favor of the easier Ridge Route due to my inability to find a partner and having only a general mountaineering axe instead of a pair of technical ice axes. I awoke early the next morning at set off up the trail towards the Tarija glacier, watching several streams of headlamps on the glacier above me. Just before dawn I reached the foot of the glacier and paused just long enough to put on my crampons and pull out my ice axe. Being solo on a glacier can be a little nerve racking at times but the crevasses were wide open and easy to traverse around for the most part. I passed three rope teams heading up the glacier, drawing questions from some and disapproving headshakes from others. I made my way to the top of Punta Tarija without issue before gaining my first views of Pequeno Alpamayo. Despite initial hesitations, I couldn't keep my eyes off the South-East face! As I descended from Tarija to the base of the Ridge route, my mind swirled with thoughts of what to do! After taking a food break I spoke with a local guide and his two clients and very impulsively decided to, against all advice, attempt the Direct Route. As I crossed the snowfield towards the bergschrund at the base of the face, I felt incredibly alone despite the crowds of people on the ridge to my left. The South-East face consists of steep, hard snow and ice at nearly an 80-degree angle for nearly 2,500 feet. I set out on the lefthand side of a corner and followed it up the route for about 2/3's of the route before crossing the "gully" to the right side. I paused briefly, thinking I was imagining voices in some sort of strange altitude related issue. I turned to look back towards Tarija to find a group of people gathered there and watching, cheering me on! Another, smaller group had gathered at the base of the Ridge Route to watch. I laughed it off and continued up the route. I found myself only two-hundered and fifty feet from the top of the pyramid with a long section of hard water ice above me and a rockband and 2,150 feet or so of air below me. I started up, making several moves up very steep, hard ice when I swung my axe down on the ice, driving it into the ice but it created an odd sound! I attempted a second placement but heard the same sound! In trying to make a third placement, my left crampon let go and I began to slide/fall down the nearly 80-degree slope. I remember looking down in between my legs at the approaching rock band and the hard snow just above that point! I tried to keep myself calm as I slid further and faster down the mountain! I counted in my head: 1 - 2 - 3 - NOW and swung my ice axe hard down into the snow and just like that, I was stopped!!! I immediately started back up the route, climbing just right of my initial line and feeling more confident in my placements! I quickly raced to the lip of the snow/ice and then over the crest onto barren rock! I turned to hear the sounds of whistles and cheers from the two groups of spectators, I raised my axe to respond to them before making the final steps to the summit of Pequeno Alpamayo! After about a half hour on the summit to catch my breath, take a few pictures and eat some food, I descended the Ridge Route back down to the base of Punta Tarija and then up to where the crowd had gathered. My watch registered an ascent time of one hour and thirty-five minutes...no record like Senor Mamani but I was proud. After receiving congratulatory hand shakes and answering various questions from other climbers, I sat down to finally reflect on what I had just done! One guide had informed me that in all his years guiding (16 so far) he never thought he would see such an ascent in real life! That's when it finally hit me...what I had just done! I quickly descended from Tarija and then down the glacier to base camp, where I intended to stay one final night before returning to La Paz. In camp I continued to receive praise and questions from various groups who were in camp or passing by. The next day I returned to Villa Tuni and then La Paz to spend my final days and nights with friends... This is my most proud climbing of 2010 and my entire life so far...



Props!!!! Takes some balls to kick it solo.

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 11, 2011
Stopped drinking after about 20 years of it, which led quickly to:

Hardest boulder problem flash to date.

Ran back to back w/no rest training laps x 4 on a pitch I couldn't even get up clean a few years ago.

Hardest onsight free solo to date.

First time up several boulder problems that had bouted me many, many times in the past, then ran laps on them on several occasions the rest of the winter. Really feels good to be able to easily lap something you couldn't even hang the opening holds on a few years ago.

Hardest sport redpoint I've done in about 12 years.

All those stick out in memory, but just being able to support a really strong climber by belaying his projects and then seeing him do 2nd or 3rd ascents of some of the hardest things in our local area that haven't been done in 20+ years, that was pretty cool too.

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By Puzman
May 11, 2011
Little finger
Hardest lead to date (Little Finger with direct finish over roof, Roger's Rock in 'Daks, 5.7+), and got to lead Gunk's classics Horseman, Sixish, and Shockley's Without. All were awesome!

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By RyanO
From sunshine
May 11, 2011
Chris Plesko wrote:
The Casual Route


ditto. same day actually! we were right behind you guys, which actually worked out nicely because we ended up hanging out on ledges with tommy caldwell all day :) 20 hours round trip made this the longest, hardest, and most rewarding day of my climbing career.

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By Jeff G.
From Fort Collins
May 11, 2011
Nearing the end of Thank God Ledge.
My 13th trip up the Diamond on my 45th birthday.
Redpointing "All Two Obvious" on Spearhead
Redpointing "Neurosurgeon"
Regular NW face of Halfdome in a day.

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By Emerson Takahashi
From SLC, UT
May 11, 2011
Smear, smear, smear
I would say that 2010 was an amazing year for me climbing.
I finally did my first outdoor lead, and can lead most 5.10's clean.

I also took my first (and then my second) climbing road trip to Utah, climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon and Joe's Valley.

2011 is already proving to be a successful climbing season, I've already had a couple weeks worth of climbing outside, and have pushed my bouldering 2 grades higher than last season

cheers :)

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
May 11, 2011
Pure bliss..
RyanO wrote:
ditto. same day actually! we were right behind you guys, which actually worked out nicely because we ended up hanging out on ledges with tommy caldwell all day :) 20 hours round trip made this the longest, hardest, and most rewarding day of my climbing career.


ooooooh good one! and how big is that rush when you finally round the corner with headlamps and see the parking lot? legs all rubbery.

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By Dean Raynes
From Salt Lake City, Utah
May 11, 2011
Me leading up the last pitch on Center Thumb
My proud moment was going up to Lone Peak above SLC and climbing "The Open Book" 5.7 and "Center Thumb" 5.9. What a beautiful place.
My brother leading pitch 4 on center thumb.

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By JonnyGreenlee
From Evergreen, CO
May 11, 2011
Delicate Arch, Sturdy Arch.
Just finding time to climb enough during my 1L year of law school to actually notice some improvement, and getting a few friends hooked too.

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By Summer Time
May 11, 2011
We hiked-down perhaps 50 off the summit, then dro...
Joe Virtanen wrote:
I just started leading on gear this year so I'd have to say that leading an entire 4 pitch route would be it.

Ditto! It was my "graduation" climb in Lumpy from trad school, and I refused to trade leads w/ my teacher (though she was hinting) b/c I had been having do that during the classes at ElDo, and I just wanted it all to myself that day. Luckily, my teacher got it, and we've been out since to Lumpy, and on much harder routes where I'm more than happy to hand-off the rack.

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