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What was your first 5.12?
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By Ian F.
From Phx
Oct 15, 2008
Energizer 12a at The Pit (Flagstaff, AZ), then later that day the Broncos won their first Super Bowl. Good day.

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By Bill Ballace
From Pullman,WA
Oct 15, 2008
Ian F. wrote:
Energizer 12a at The Pit (Flagstaff, AZ), then later that day the Broncos won their first Super Bowl. Good day.

Damned Good Day!!!

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By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From Golden, CO
Oct 15, 2008
Pure bliss..
JPVallone wrote:
Redneck Hero in Button Rock, I think it is soft so if you want a first ego boosting 12 then I recommend a run up this


Actually with the drive, the approach, the descent to the groovy sandbar and then the ascent. It's 12a fer' sure. An adventure allrighty.

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By Chris Duca
From Havertown, PA
Oct 15, 2008
Finishing up Elusive Dream at the King Wall.  Adir...
The Throne in the Trapps at the Gunks, though it was only a pink point. I had no intention of trying it, let alone leading it, but while rapping off Bonnie's roof, I was looking at its beautiful face and noticed a boat load of gear placements, so I started placing some on the way down. By the time I had reached the base of the route, I had placed enough truck gear to make me feel comfortable enough to attempt it. After my 3rd attempt, I sent it. Great route, with some impeccable stone

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By Jon Miller on the WS
Oct 15, 2008
Knapping with the Alien on Wall Street. Had no idea what it was, no guide book. Decided to try it because it looked good. Just as I reached the chains a guy yelled up "Nice job! That's a .12!" And I went, No wonder that was so damn hard!
Jon

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By sean connors
Oct 15, 2008
Head Like a Hole
My first twelve was Road Rash Roof in Clear Creek. It's a one move for sure, but feels like .12b with the damn rope drag you can get when the rope works it's way in to the crack. It's like doing 100lb squats on 5.8!

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By Brad Brandewie
Oct 15, 2008
Maya's first trip to RMNP.
Not sure... maybe the Hindu in Onion Creek?

I was able to work out a sequence that kept it at about C2 though.

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By TBlom
Oct 15, 2008
Uhhhh.... yeah, been workin' on that for....ohhhh about 15 years now... Let me get back to you on that one. I still like to believe that if I trained hard enough it could happen (god training sucks)...
Even got an 11d once, although it could be said that it doesn't count because it was at 'sport park' which is notoriously soft.

DAMN YOU 5.12!!!!! You can't even say you climb well in Boulder without ticking some 12... everyone's mom, dad, and little sister climbs that hard here!

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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 15, 2008
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Tevis Blom wrote:
You can't even say you climb well in Boulder without ticking some 12... everyone's mom, dad, and little sister climbs that hard here!


sorry, but apparently, 5.13 is the new "5.12". just ask one of them...

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By john strand
From southern colo
Oct 15, 2008
Aiwass on the south butt of whitehorse ledge in NH. Jimmy Dunn had done a start to the right at 11d and after flashing that, I thought the original line may go.
Back in 83 5.12 was a big number in NH and few people would give this grade, especially to a boulder problem section. We also did the ffa of the rest of the route , about 400' at 10+.
I had done a LOT of climbing at the Quincy Quarries and found Aiwass to be a good solid 5.10+ Quarries.
We caught some shit for rating this 5.12 but so what. only Steve Larsen gave any support to us and a congat.
I'll still call it V3/4 and the upper climbing 10++

john

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By mark kerns
From golden, co
Oct 15, 2008
a view from the 2nd pitch.  "eric the rep&quo...
Latin Lover - smith rocks, oregon, but that was a long time ago. Actually a long, long time ago and at this point it really doesn't seem to matter that much. it certainly did at the time though.

personally my most memorable climbs are not by number grade but from the experience. there is a lot to be said for grade lV 5.8

climb on.

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By mark kerns
From golden, co
Oct 15, 2008
a view from the 2nd pitch.  "eric the rep&quo...
john strand wrote:
Aiwass on the south butt of whitehorse ledge in NH. Jimmy Dunn had done a start to the right at 11d and after flashing that, I thought the original line may go. Back in 83 5.12 was a big number in NH and few people would give this grade, especially to a boulder problem section. We also did the ffa of the rest of the route , about 400' at 10+. I had done a LOT of climbing at the Quincy Quarries and found Aiwass to be a good solid 5.10+ Quarries. We caught some shit for rating this 5.12 but so what. only Steve Larsen gave any support to us and a congat. I'll still call it V3/4 and the upper climbing 10++ john


5.12 is still a big number...and anyone that can climb or has climbed at that level has paid dues.

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By crankenstein
Oct 15, 2008
Not sure I can recall the 1st one since, back in '88 or so I was doing some 1st ascents on overhanging limestone down around Austin and didn't really know what number to put on many climbs. But during a road trip to Boulder that year I thought I was climbing well and there had been a photo of The Big Picture on Overhang Rock in Bear Canyon in the Flatirons that looked so impressive. So I decided I was going to do that. Well we got there and I was able to pull through the crux at the 3rd? bolt, but I didn't like how far the 4th bolt looked to be so I lowered off and abandoned the attempt. I was so upset at myself for not going for it that we hiked down to Shoot to Thrill on another ridge in Bear Canyon and I got that, fueled by my disappointment from the previous failure.
In later years I have not been able to get the crux of that climb clean again. There are some overlooked classic 12's in the Flatirons for those that are willing to walk a ways.

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By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Oct 15, 2008
mmmm....tree
Can't remember...maybe the Ticket on Blob, or Rhinestone Cowboy at Wild Iris(might be a gimme, but it was quite hectic as I recall). Mile High Comic Crack is a good trad line to break into the grade. A route I put in on the little Blob called Take Five; I rated it 11C, has since been upgraded to 12a; not sure what that means-but I recommend it not just cause my name is on it.

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Oct 15, 2008
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledg...
Things As They Are Now

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By Wolfgang Braun
From Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
Wolfgang Braun moving through the first crux of Th...
Hank Caylor wrote:
Downpressor Man in Eldo my Sophmore year of High School.

Your the same as Snowdenroad. You both sent that as your first 5.12

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By Ben Kiessel
Oct 15, 2008
2003
Brad,
I think your correct response is, "Can we start a thread called What was your first 5.10 so i can participate also?" Oh wait... you haven't climbed that hard either.

love you man,
Ben

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