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What size pack do you climb with?
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Oct 4, 2011
Charles Savel wrote:
I'm surprised that the Cilo Gear fan section hasnít come running to this thread. Cilo Gear 20L Worksack Generally anything in the 20+/- liter range is good, it can fit quite a bit of stuff if you really need it to but it isn't too big. Also, +1 on girth hitching a sling to the pack when it is required in chimneys and such.

+1 for the 20L worksack. I wore it up a climb lightly loaded, then stuffed my double rack into it at the top. Loads of room in this little pack- highly recommended.

The 30L hauly is another good option if you want more room and virtually unlimited abrasion resistance.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,377 points
Oct 4, 2011
P3 on the Nutcracker.

This pack is a champ! I just bought it and love it. Plus I can haul my rope plus all my gear AND my wife's gear! Love how it feels when I climb. Now when everything I listed is on it, it isnt the most comfortable...but with two harnesses, 8 biners, 15 draws, 4 runners, two pairs of climbing shoes, two helmets and 2 liters water!!! How can you beat that.
Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Mar 10, 2011
135 points
Oct 4, 2011
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
Killis Howard wrote:
...some guy hauling a 6 and 8 year old up slabs, who guides for a living, told me that "you can't climb shit because you climb with people that can't climb shit". And the irony award goes to...

Funniest thing I've read all week. You always make me laugh, Killis.

I rack on my harness, so I don't like having my water on my harness. I climb with a bullet. It's a great pack, but it's only big enough for one person's gear. I never notice it's even there unless I'm climbing OWs or tight chimneys, in which case I hang it from my belay loop via one of the four footers I bring on every route (I don't carry a cordalette).

Hope that helps a little.

Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Oct 4, 2011
Walking through Echo Cove looking for a good climb...
Another nice looking pack

Tyler Smith
From Buena Park
Joined Feb 22, 2011
16 points
Oct 4, 2011
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero
It is a good point someone made - the bullet pack generally has only enough room for a single pair of shoes, a bit of water, etc. Consider the attachments pts ect if you ever carry an axe or have much of an approach

Buy accordingly.

As for the REI pack - having used it a handful of times in the tetons, I won't use it again except when I am very space limited in my packing options inside another bag (business travel, approach to multi-day alpine climbs). You get what you pay for with that one. You will feel every little edge and protrusion of your water bottles and shoes.

Joined Jan 22, 2007
86 points
Oct 4, 2011
Which way again?
Glad you got a kick out of that one, Marc. At the time, it was more alarming; but afterward, digesting the experience, it got funnier and funnier. I need to start a fan page. Start selling Tshirts of my greatest hits... Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Oct 6, 2011
I use the north face verto 26 pack. It is so useful for fast climbing...
From Turkey
Joined Sep 27, 2011
0 points
Oct 6, 2011
Petzl Bug kicks tail. Great features, small, cheap, durable. Pete Elliott
From Co Spgs CO
Joined Jul 28, 2006
32 points
Oct 6, 2011
BD hollowpoint
BD hollowpoint
The BD hollow point rocks! Fits a rack, bladder, and a few other items, plus the rope stacks nicely on top. It has a nice slim design and is made of tough materials.
Brian Snider
From NorCal
Joined Mar 24, 2010
759 points
Oct 6, 2011
Moab, Potash Road and Ice Cream Parlor

This thing is small and sits well above your harness. I can fit 2 48 oz nalgenes, snacks, and an extra layer. It is hydration compatible and has tons of little extras like a camera cord. The red one looks sweet too.
Joined Oct 19, 2010
107 points
Jan 23, 2014
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall
Interesting to come upon this thread. I am crazy about packs and am struggling with a balanced climbing pack. I find that i sometimes have a mile hike sometimes in to get to the base of the climb. I typically thought it best to carry my climbing rack and gear in my pack instead of around my hips while i trek through the brush. Also, if i climb a long multi pitch that is intended to be a few miles hiked out, again i would think packing my gear back into my pack is much more comfortable than keeping it all in a rack on my hips. Or any approach. Even short ones I carry everything in my pack to the Base. With this I have carried a 30 liter Bitt Boss by camel pack, and a 40 liter GO RUCK 2. Both of which i find maxed out to the brim as i usually carry a rack for multi pitch, ropes, and sometimes i have a little extra gear because I solo climb as well. Add beer for days end and I am fully maxed out. Typically as I climb, i simply Haul the pack on pulley and clip to the side of the mountain, i never climb with it on my back. during this time it is mostly empty and i also use it as a rope bag instead of having the rope on a ledge. This is very efficient, fast, and comfortable and helps my rope stay clean and snare free. But i feel like i need a slightly bigger pack for approach and hike out. I am thinking like a 55. And what if i want to camp, forget about it i need more space. Anyone have any experience like this? I see a lot of Mockery of people who carry large packs and small pack talk, and i don't consider myself a amateur, although i am no expert,so what do you do with longer approaches or a decent hike out? Does it all stay on your hips from the car back to the car? Jonah Klein
Joined Dec 3, 2013
376 points
Jan 23, 2014
Which way again?
Let's play a game-oldest thread you can bring back from the dead for no apparent reason. ^^^^^win!!! Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jan 23, 2014
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I told a friend not to bring a big pack once on an alpine route. It turned out to have very tricky traverses with thin feet and the pack messed up their balance, turning a fun obstacle into a terrifying mess. So...don't bring a big pack. Right? Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Jan 23, 2014
slim wrote:
if you are carrying a pack for a typical 5-8 pitch route, then you are probably doing something pretty wrong.

Regardless of the geriatric status of this thread, I love statements like these.

In essence:

My opinion = fact

In reality:

My opinion = my opinion
Dave Bn
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Jul 13, 2011
15 points
Jan 23, 2014
Live to Work not Work to Live.  We Love Our Jobs!!...
BD Hollowpoint, harness on, some of my gear on harness, some in the pack for the approach, second carrying rope, with plenty of room for whatever. I have the neon light, I thought it small for long routes and approach, tried the BD Axis 33 to big for me to climb simple multi-pitch and I personally dont leave anything at the base. Christopher Gibson
From Frisco, Texas
Joined Feb 13, 2012
140 points
Jan 23, 2014

I bought a Mammut Trion 45 +10 (awesome pack btw) for a recent alpine trip, my first. Money's tight and it was a week-long trip so I had to pick something that held a ton of stuff, yet was highly compressible for climbing. It really did well with the rack, rope, food, bivy, gear etc. but it was maxed. The other guys had big expedition packs and carried a smaller packs on them for climbing.

Preparing for the trip, I experimented with using just the external frame from an older backpack and simply hanging my Trion on it, then lashing the sleeping bag, bear can and other big items to the frame as you'd normally do. In the end I regretted not doing this, and next time I'm going to try it. I'd have been able to carry more stuff a lot more comfortably, then of course just remove the Trion at camp and use it for a climb pack.
Doug S
From W Pa
Joined Apr 14, 2012
35 points
Jan 23, 2014
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall
Funny VAGenius, unfortunatly my time has been occupied with a job and family and oh yea, climbing. So i have not had a lot of extra time to do my usual trolling of the MP forums and just came accros this one. My "reason" for the post is i am curious as to how other avid climbers manage gear. I am always interested in learning more efficiant means. Or learning anything for that matter. Thanks for those with the feedback. Jonah Klein
Joined Dec 3, 2013
376 points
Jan 23, 2014
Grand Teton
I will admit I am the guy always with too much stuff. If you carrying a tiny pack, are you carrying a larger pack on the approach or racking up at the car? Keithb00ne
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Jul 26, 2013
73 points
Jan 23, 2014
On longer alpine climbs (1000' + climbs up 14,000' peaks) I'll usually bring my BD speed-40. My partner and I will put all the water, food, extra clothing, and shoes in the pack and the second will haul it. For shorter climbs I use an REI Flash-18.

The 40L pack is great for climbs that have a long approach after a long drive. My personal preference is to do the approach the day / night before and bivy at the base of the climb. I can pretty much fit everything I need for a 1-2 night stay and climb in the 40L pack, and use then use it as a day-pack.
Joshua Payne
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined May 20, 2013
58 points
Jan 23, 2014
The biggest most uncomfortable pack i can find, as long as it holds lot's a whiskey. Oh, make sure not to fasten the waist belt, that makes it better on sketchy ground. courthouse
Joined Oct 22, 2013
150 points
Jan 23, 2014
Which way again?
I love how much analysis goes into this minutia. I probably own more packs than Jonah, and care not a whit. They're just packs. Hard to gush over something so utilitarian. Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jan 24, 2014
Dana Design Astral plane. i've been doing this for years and love. It's a little on the heavy side, but it holds EVERYTHING i need. mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Joined Aug 29, 2009
16 points
Jan 24, 2014
Jonah at P1 Belay Triumvirate Wall
what size Liter is it? Also do you pack your rack and gear in the pack for approach? thats something I haven't seen much response back on yet. How do others with small packs make approach? do they wear there entire rack on there hips for the hike in and out? I do mostly traditional 3 pitch and better climbs, I have a lot of gear so I carry a big bag. Also i will spend the entire day on a Craig doing multiple routes, so i carry food and more for the day. Curious how the little baggers do it? On Mt. Tammany typically I do a 2 or 3 pitch with a gear haul up with me, and hike out a few miles off the top back to the car. The hike down is like a 45 degree slope down, I couldn't imagine trying that with a full rack on my hips. Jonah Klein
Joined Dec 3, 2013
376 points
Jan 24, 2014
You're a hardman for sure. I salute you!

Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
130 points
Jan 24, 2014
I can't recommend this one highly enough:


It's got ample room for everything including rack, harness, helmet, food, water, a spare layer and a shell INSIDE (I hate having stuff hanging on the outside of a pack) for the approach and descent, but collapses down remarkably well for climbing and is quite light.

Like all CCW packs, it's superbly made, tough as nails, and has no frills or extras. It's a true climber's pack.
Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
185 points

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