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Wine and Roses
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What, No Rope? 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Faces South
Page Views: 2,658
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Tony Bubb follows 'What, No Rope? (10a)' in the We...

Description 

A good climb with some tricky moves. Also one of the longer routes around! Enjoy mostly good gear and good rock to the top of the climb, using longer slings to keep drag in check. In 2001 there was a family of otters who played in the river just east of the belay, keeping us entertained for the afternoon.

Location 

Perhaps 200 meters West of the Wine and Roses anchor and just past a dead-end gully descending part way into the canyon there is a huge right-facing corner. The buttress that this borders on the east is referred to as 'The Indian Head.'

Protection 

A standard rack, maybe a little heavier than normal, owing to the pitch length. Two ropes to rap in to a stance well above the river with a gear anchor.


Photos of What, No Rope? Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Joseffa Meir gets a belay as she leads 'What, No R...
Joseffa Meir gets a belay as she leads 'What, No R...

Comments on What, No Rope? Add Comment
Show which comments
By craigw
Jun 16, 2009

Be careful on this route! There is a huge boulder that is loose near the bottom half of the climb (As of 6/13/09). If this were to come off it would injure the climber and belayer severely.
By Jeebus
Mar 31, 2010

word on the rock, but its in there pretty tightly. just don't crank on it. . .
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Apr 14, 2016

There are bolts for top roping on the ledge. Keep the rope on the slot/crack closest to the river as you look down from the anchors. The other crack will get the rope stuck if the climber falls. If you are leading use the storming intrepid anchors (the obvious ones with the name plate). The climb starts in the smooth torpedo tube about 50 feet off the river, a natural belay with a cool start to the climb. Good morning sun/ pm shade.

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