What I've Been Missing Out On
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Ramp/ crack at the start of the route.
Climb diagonally up a ramp that takes small to medium gear. From here continue up through a water streak, eventually passing through a notch to the top of the route
This route was put up after Brad Young's excellent 2007 guidebook. For see more newly established routes check out the Mud and Crud site. mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?...
Located just before the formation The Lump if you are walking up from Condor Gulch. Just past the Squareblock look for a small grouping of Pinnacles/boulders on the left side of the trail. The route is on the larger of the formations on the downhill side.
Single rack to 2.5
There is not anchor or bolts at the top. Use good body positioning.
By Brad Young
Nov 27, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Actually, there is a solid, three inch crack where this route ends. It provides the chance for a nice gear anchor. (And I used a cam here as a final piece before the headwall above when leading the parallel route Joaquin the Dog.)
Not that anyone else will ever repeat the route mind you :)