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What is the best edging shoe for Smith rock vertical test pieces?
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Dec 27, 2012
What is the best edging shoe for Smith rock vertical test pieces? Amir
From Boulder, CO
Joined Apr 8, 2006
38 points
Dec 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: me
I'm partial to Lasportiva Miuras. I like the lace up version best. Phil Chi
From Bend, OR
Joined Sep 14, 2008
256 points
Dec 29, 2012
The one that stays on the foothold? jon vandub
From westminster,co
Joined Feb 1, 2007
5 points
Dec 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: #2
Phil Chi wrote:
I'm partial to La Sportiva Miuras. I like the lace up version best.


+1
Mr. Holmes
From Cascade West
Joined Dec 6, 2010
82 points
Dec 29, 2012
I would say that most of the vertical test pieces (To Bolt, Darkness, Last Waltz, Vicious Fish) get done in Anasazi Blancos or Anasazi Verdes. They get done (of course) in Miuras too, but the other, steeper testpeices (White Wedding, Scarface) seem to be a better match.

But now that I think about it, for the Smith test pieces it probably just depends on who's supplying your shoes :-).

Also, I know this from watching others, not from sending.
Alex Baker
Joined Sep 28, 2009
15 points
Dec 29, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: The route in it's entirety.
jon vandub wrote:
The one that stays on the foothold?


  • rimshot

I saw everything from grandstones on heinous cling to slippers being used on chain reaction. I used Muira VS's personally, but anything stiff should suffice.
Greg G
From SLC, UT
Joined Oct 3, 2008
815 points
Administrator
Dec 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
5.10 galileo gets my vote. Similar to anasazi, but significantly stiffer through point of toe. Would chain reaction really qualify as an edging testpiece? slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,149 points
Dec 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: uintas
5.10 anasazi vcs Mattberr
From utah
Joined May 1, 2010
47 points
Dec 30, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Me
5.10 Green/White Anasazi & Sportiva Testarossa/Miura VS. Ryan Palo
From Bend, oregon
Joined Aug 18, 2006
637 points
Feb 1, 2013
Galileo. GhaMby
From Heaven
Joined Oct 2, 2006
427 points
Jun 24, 2013
Alex Baker wrote:
I would say that most of the vertical test pieces (To Bolt, Darkness, Last Waltz, Vicious Fish) get done in Anasazi Blancos or Anasazi Verdes. They get done (of course) in Miuras too, but the other, steeper testpeices (White Wedding, Scarface) seem to be a better match. But now that I think about it, for the Smith test pieces it probably just depends on who's supplying your shoes :-). Also, I know this from watching others, not from sending.


Apparently one of each is the way to go...

Rock Climbing Photo: Alex on Vicious Fish.
Alex on Vicious Fish.
ktaylor
From Bay Area, CA
Joined Mar 27, 2009
472 points


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