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What is Happening to the V-Scale?
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Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
Cool story, I flashed this 5.14 boulder problem yesterday after about 2 hours of leading and called it v6 Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunking
Why is it that everybody who is insistent that the YDS/V Scale/Whatever only takes into account the hardest move never climbs at a level where how sustained a climb is would make a difference? JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
675 points
Jul 10, 2012
Jeremy Hand wrote:
Cool story, I flashed this 5.14 boulder problem yesterday after about 2 hours of leading and called it v6


I have a way better story. One time I was working a little boulder problem in J-Tree called Leave it to Beaver, I peeled half way up, caught myself on the rest crimp on the bottom. Finished it and rated it V0+.

EDIT: I did this clean, i.e. without a bouldering pad.
Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
J Hazard wrote:
I have a way better story. One time I was working a little boulder problem in J-Tree called Leave it to Beaver, I peeled half way up, caught myself on the rest crimp on the bottom. Finished it and rated it V0+. EDIT: I did this clean, i.e. without a bouldering pad.


Really? V0+? I campus onsighted that route while I got my buddies to throw stones at my head and figured it was no harder than v0-.

EDIT: I spiked that route aka dropped a bunch of rust nails and shards of glass at the bottom
Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Pit BBQ
JohnWesely wrote:
Why is it that everybody who is insistent that the YDS/V Scale/Whatever only takes into account the hardest move never climbs at a level where how sustained a climb is would make a difference?


Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not?

If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me.

What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
262 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not? If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me. What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?


you must be a competant 7c climber. thanks
Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: slopey
that is 7c SUSTAINED. no one 7c move wonders. Jeremy Hand
Joined Feb 24, 2012
109 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Colonel Mustard
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd.


No shit. I flat out didn't understand what he was saying.

As useful as they are, subjective scales will always be somewhat flawed. In the end, there's only what you can and what you can't do.
Colonel Mustard
From Sacramento, CA
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,448 points
Jul 10, 2012
Jeremy Hand wrote:
Really? V0+? I campus onsighted that route while I got my buddies to throw stones at my head and figured it was no harder than v0-. EDIT: I spiked that route aka dropped a bunch of rust nails and shards of glass at the bottom


I will have to go back and do it again. I think last time my body fat % was around 5. Now I am probably in the low 2's.
Unassigned User
Joined Dec 31, 1969
0 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunking
Joe Virtanen wrote:
Your comment is very odd. How sustained a route is would make a difference at any level, would it not? If 5.9 were the hardest move I could pull, then having a route that has 20 5.9 moves in a row would be large a difference for me. What is the level of radness at which one is qualified to have an opinion on this subject?


Usually, but not always, there is so much weight on your feet at the lower grades that doing a 5.8 or 5.9 move over and over again is not going to generate a pump in the same way a harder move would.
JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Joined Nov 21, 2009
675 points
Jul 10, 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Pit BBQ
JohnWesely wrote:
Usually, but not always, there is so much weight on your feet at the lower grades that doing a 5.8 or 5.9 move over and over again is not going to generate a pump in the same way a harder move would.


Maybe not for you, but that's the inherent premise of a subjective rating system. 20 5.9 moves on a slabbier wall might not give you a pump, but it sure as heck would generate pump in the forearms of a 5.9 max climber.
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
262 points
Jul 13, 2012
lol @ 2% bf. i dont think youd be alive, much less climbing.

did you come to that figure on your own, i hope?
boulderbum
From NY
Joined Feb 25, 2011
4 points


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