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What does your Woody look like???
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By BoulderJunke
Apr 15, 2013
 e.h.d.t

psyched to finally be able to contribute to this thread!

woody
woody


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By Jeff Gicklhorn
From A Climbing Mecca Near You!
Apr 15, 2013
Redpointing Sound of Power, Red Rock Canyon NCA.  Photo by the Inspired Climber (<a href='http://theinspiredclimber.com/)' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >theinspiredclimber.com/)</a>.

Nice and simple design BoulderJunkie, that looks like a good training wall to me.

2 questions:
1) What angle is the wall?
2) Is the entire wall 2x6 construction, or just the exterior frame?


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By BoulderJunke
Apr 15, 2013
 e.h.d.t

Jeff Gicklhorn wrote:
Nice and simple design BoulderJunkie, that looks like a good training wall to me. 2 questions: 1) What angle is the wall? 2) Is the entire wall 2x6 construction, or just the exterior frame?



Everything is 2x6...and it's roughly 42 degrees, was going for 45 but the rafters said otherwise...close enough...super stoked to give it a test run once some t-nuts get here!


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By DoesNotCare
From Heaven
Apr 15, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

Boulder Junkie,

If you added a 1 foot kicker (vertical section at the base and levered the rest of the board, so the bottom goes up and the top comes down you would go steeper, that's what I did. If you don't have a kicker it's hard to keep your feet off the ground during the first couple of moves. Now I just need to train more often...


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By BoulderJunke
Apr 21, 2013
 e.h.d.t

skitch wrote:
Boulder Junkie, If you added a 1 foot kicker (vertical section at the base and levered the rest of the board, so the bottom goes up and the top comes down you would go steeper, that's what I did. If you don't have a kicker it's hard to keep your feet off the ground during the first couple of moves. Now I just need to train more often...

.I didn't/don't want any steeper unless I just add on and make a roof section...I did add an extra 2x6 at the bottom as a kicker for variety and people who aren't comfortable with harder sit starts though after a friend who is just learning came over...and cause the first 6" is pretty useless, a 12" kicker just makes things too easy lol


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By skinny legs and all
From Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013
Right Pile, Big Cottonwood Canyon, summer 2008.

Greg, that is an absolutely sick and professional looking wall you have there! I really like the recessed lighting and the volumes.


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By Adam Paashaus
From North Carolina
Apr 30, 2013
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

I'm having the hardest time picking an angle. Its going to be 8' wide and 12' long with a constant angle. I've never been strong on super steep walls and have had a few pulley issues in the past so I'm trying to keep it somewhat moderate but I dont want it to be lame either. I've always been stronger on the featured bouldering walls with more angles where more technique was required. My gut is saying 20deg, any recommendations?


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Apr 30, 2013
OMG, I winz!!!

Adam Paashaus wrote:
I'm having the hardest time picking an angle. Its going to be 8' wide and 12' long with a constant angle. I've never been strong on super steep walls and have had a few pulley issues in the past so I'm trying to keep it somewhat moderate but I dont want it to be lame either. I've always been stronger on the featured bouldering walls with more angles where more technique was required. My gut is saying 20deg, any recommendations?


I'd say a little steeper. My "steep" wall is 26deg right now. My shallow 10deg. I have room so i'm adding a 45 next.


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By Greg Stokes
From Smithers, BC CANADA
Apr 30, 2013
FA of "Slip-and-Slide" 5.10c/d Hagwilget, BC, March 29 2013. Photo Don Kindrat

Adam:

I doubt that you will find a 20deg wall to be steep enough in the long run unless you like really small holds, 20 is really not that steep... I would go 30 or 40 and throw some bigger holds on it, and work your way smaller.


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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
May 1, 2013

Adam Paashaus wrote:
I'm having the hardest time picking an angle. Its going to be 8' wide and 12' long with a constant angle. I've never been strong on super steep walls and have had a few pulley issues in the past so I'm trying to keep it somewhat moderate but I dont want it to be lame either. I've always been stronger on the featured bouldering walls with more angles where more technique was required. My gut is saying 20deg, any recommendations?


Greg Stokes wrote:
I doubt that you will find a 20deg wall to be steep enough in the long run unless you like really small holds, 20 is really not that steep... I would go 30 or 40 and throw some bigger holds on it, and work your way smaller.


I have a 15 and 30. I quickly got strong enough that only the most difficult holds were a challenge on the 15 (I guess it's time for some new holds). If you've had pulley issues in the past, and want to avoid small crimps, then maybe go with something steeper with jugs. That said, I still climb on my 15 a lot more than my 30, because I feel like the small holds better prepare me for the style of climbing I do.


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By Greg Stokes
From Smithers, BC CANADA
May 1, 2013
FA of "Slip-and-Slide" 5.10c/d Hagwilget, BC, March 29 2013. Photo Don Kindrat

Also the steeper it is, the longer climbing surface you can achieve fitting within your height parameters. For example on one of my previous home walls, I had a ceiling height of just under 9', and included both a 30 and 45 degree walls. The difference in length created by just the 15 degrees difference on the 45 was quite significant. So much that I barely used the 30 after a while, I just had so much more freedom of what I could set on the 45, an extra move makes a big difference. I would not build a 15 in a standard height room, you will be severely limited in the types of upwards movements you can set, and juggy holds will be far too easy


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By Adam Paashaus
From North Carolina
May 4, 2013
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

First problem.
First problem.

Finished my wall last night. I went with 30deg which I think was a good choice. Its plenty challenging.

My freestanding wall specs:

2x6 frame
Bcx 3/4"plywood
8' wide
12' long (about 10.5' high) set back at 30 deg
4"x 8" cedar timber to join base of wall to base of uprights (overkill but had them)
Upright supports (2) 2"x8"x10' per side screwed together (thing is a rock)
1/2" X 6" Lags for joining all the bottom pieces (3per joint)
Three 1/2" grade 8 nuts and bolts per side for joining the uprights to the top of the wall
sand in latex paint for texture worked out really well (1part sand 4 parts paint, stirring constantly)

Very happy with the results. I plan on making a couple triangle features and adding a kickboard. Ive got a lot more holds on now. I want to start making some holds also. Any good ideas? Id be interested in hearing about how to make molds and use legit hold plastics or even concrete (high psi) or real rocks. I'm a diy kind of person when it's feasible. I did some searches but didn't find any great results.

Also looking for good ideas for pads. Right now all I have is a good size crashpad but its not big enough. I was thinking about mattresses on the bottom and a couple Futon mattresses over them to give a little more cushion for landing on your but or back and also cover the bottom rails.

Now I need a couch and a Tv out there and my wife may never have to see me again.


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By JackWeaver
From Tucson, AZ
May 6, 2013

I just finished building my wall - a flat 6x12 rectangle. I'm not quite sure how I will mount the thing and wanted to get some feedback on the two options that seem best right now.

1. cut circles in the vertical 2x6's that are on either side of my wall with a hole saw drill bit thingy and run wire rope through them and around some big trees in my back yard. The trees are right next to each other and angled nicely, so I think I could just scoot the base of my wall to the base of the trees and secure the top with the wire rope (protecting the trees with some carpet or old hose.

2. Build one of those right triangle frames out of 2x6's so that the wall is free standing.

I've got the materials for both of these methods, so I was wondering if anyone with experience building/using DIY walls has insight into the benefits either of these methods, or something entirely different would provide.

- I will be posting pics as soon as I put it up!


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By verticalbound
May 6, 2013
beer

never thought about taking pictures... wish I had. might still be able to find it, but 3 years ago I live in wasilla,AK church rd area off parks hwy, I took the boards from about 36 pallets and $700 worth of holds from rei and bolted them all to a many birch tree and had a pretty wild hold forest going, great traverses and problems, the highest being about 15 feet. anyone in hte area PM me Id love to see if its still there.


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By The Lingering Fart
May 7, 2013

verticalbound wrote:
never thought about taking pictures... wish I had. might still be able to find it, but 3 years ago I live in wasilla,AK church rd area off parks hwy, I took the boards from about 36 pallets and $700 worth of holds from rei and bolted them all to a many birch tree and had a pretty wild hold forest going, great traverses and problems, the highest being about 15 feet. anyone in hte area PM me Id love to see if its still there.


So you left your expensive garbage nailed to trees and moved away?


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By JackWeaver
From Tucson, AZ
May 15, 2013

climbing wall <br />
climbing wall


climbing wall held up by tree <br />
climbing wall held up by tree



Finally, my own wall! This thing was made entirely of free wood! I bought some wire rope to wrap around this huge tree and the set up seems pretty stable. I'll have to let out some of the rope and try it at a steeper angle. It's 8x12 and I got the super 35 pack of holds from cheapholds.com Which seems to be perfect for me. I climb at about 5.10 and have found that this package has a lot of versatility. I can make routes easy enough for beginners and most of the holds are challenging for me, with a lot of room for growth, because they can be turned around to turn jugs into slopers and that sort of thing.


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By Woodchuck ATC
May 16, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

I"ve posted a ton of pics of my wall on threads here over the years. Planning on some nice upgrades and improvements to it this summer and will add pics when they are complete. Later!


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By WilInBris
Jun 8, 2013

I built this over a couple of weekends. Adding the volumes was the best thing. Angle is about 45 and only 1/3 of my holds were useful. Now have lots of interesting problems.

Sick of rain and no climbing
Sick of rain and no climbing


A little vert on the side
A little vert on the side


1400mm roof makes for fun finishes
1400mm roof makes for fun finishes


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 8, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

? What is a '1400mm roof' ? Not sure of what that means or where it is in the picture. 1.4meters of something?


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Jun 8, 2013
Cleo's Needle

1400 > 1.4


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By Sys Ex
From Lake Forest, CA
Jun 18, 2013

FInished this about 2 weeks ago, I used the wrong kind of paint tho, so will have to sand. Basically, what I've come to learn is that if the paint isn't textured, the holds will stick and I've had some holds break off some of the plywood. Any info/suggestions on what type/kind of paint to use, appreciated.

Wall is 8 feet in height, 6 feet wide, 45 degree angle

Free-standing woody, loosely based on moonboard specs.
Free-standing woody, loosely based on moonboard specs.


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Jun 18, 2013

Sys Ex wrote:
Any info/suggestions on what type/kind of paint to use, appreciated. Wall is 8 feet in height, 6 feet wide, 45 degree angle

Scroll down and see the How To Paint section.

atomikclimbingholds.com/build-a-climbing-wall#HTSWW2


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By Brandon H - SC
From Jackson SC
Jun 18, 2013
cover

my little woody is 50 degrees and 16 feet in length by 8 feet in width. Suspended on notched power poles and held together with large lag screws. I find that the hardest part of climbing on 50 degrees is finger skin wear lol



I still need more holds to fully use the surface


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 18, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Brandon H - SC wrote:
my little woody is 50 degrees and 16 feet in length by 8 feet in width. Suspended on notched power poles and held together with large lag screws. I find that the hardest part of climbing on 50 degrees is finger skin wear lol I still need more holds to fully use the surface


My wall is also outside and the hold stay up all year round. Weather, especially direct sun and heat have taken a toll on the plastics and fibers of holds. They have become really rugged and sharp, painful on the fingers, so they need to be sanded down a bit to keep them finger friendly for sure. I just can't take them all off in the winter anymore, some are frozen in place with rusted out t-nuts after years in same spot. I'm just lucky I haven't had more panels rot out in the weather after 18 years in place out there!!


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jun 18, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Ray Pinpillage wrote:
1400 > 1.4


?? I still don't get it. 1400 mm is 1000mm = 1 meter, and 400 more which is .4 meter...Thus 1.4 meters is equal to 1400mm, not less. Still not sure what is being measured for the 1400 number. Height, width, what part is 1400mm. ?


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