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What does your Woody look like???
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By coldatom
From Cambridge, MA
Jul 28, 2012
Jurassic Park
Built this with my wife in our tiny urban backyard. It took 4 full days of work. 8' by 8' angled wall on top of a 2'x8' footboard. The angle is fully adjustable.

Backyard wall
Backyard wall


The wall is held up by a rope that zig-zags between the wall and a cross beam. The tension is held by a prusik, which makes angle adjustment quick, and backed up by tying off the slack.
One tarp is fixed across the back, while another can be pulled over the top.
Rear view of tarps and suspension.
Rear view of tarps and suspension.


Wood blocks at fixed angles back up the rope suspension, but the angle can be set anywhere.
side view of wall
side view of wall


The front tarp can quickly be thrown over the back of the wall to gain access, or attached to the PVC poles if you want to climb in the rain.
Tarped wall
Tarped wall


And here is the CAD design.
CAD design, front view.
CAD design, front view.


CAD design, rear view.
CAD design, rear view.

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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Aug 2, 2012
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow
Sorry not to have posted an update since page 6. Here's how it turned out, with holds and a volume. It is set as symmetrically as my hold purchases will allow, as we use it mostly for training. It gets enough use that we put in a heater last fall so we could use it during the winter. As much as it pains me, this summer has made me consider AC, as well. :-(

My home wall.
My home wall.

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By Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Aug 2, 2012
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow
coldatom,
do you think that your design would work ok w/ three panels instead of 2, i.e. 12' across by 8' tall?

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By coldatom
From Cambridge, MA
Aug 2, 2012
Jurassic Park
Matt Roberts wrote:
coldatom, do you think that your design would work ok w/ three panels instead of 2, i.e. 12' across by 8' tall?


Structurally, I think so. I might want to beef up the cross bar on the freestanding frame. However, the weight will make it less convenient to adjust the angle (not to mention assemble). As it is, I need assistance to raise the angle once it is more than 30 overhanging. I have someone push as I pull in the rope.

That said, I don't find the width to be a limiting factor. I would maybe add 2-4' in height, titled more vertical by 20-30, so its like climbing out of a roof.

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By CJD
From Chino Valley, AZ
Aug 3, 2012
My Hero
I'm getting ready to build a free standing outdoor woody and I'm looking for advice from folks who have experience climbing on them. I'm looking for advice on the best/most fun design features to include and what not to do. I want it to be fun and good training without getting boring. I'm not that interested in horizontal roofs since I rarely climb stuff like that but I want to build power and lock off strength. I want it to mimic real bouldering as much as possible.


What features are a must? What would you do differently? What is your single most fun or useful thing I should consider in my design?
What I have is four 10' 4X4 posts embedded 2' in the ground in concrete in a 8'X12' rectangle. I'm going to build a shed in the middle with the climbing walls around it. I want to be able to traverse around it and have varying angled walls. I plan to build 12' walls on the long sides and walls that are 8' at the base that will expand to meet the angled 12'walls as they get taller. I have good construction skills so can make almost anything work.

Thanks, Chris

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By Luke Wilken
From Cincinnati, OH
Aug 22, 2012
The start of something beautiful
The start of something beautiful



So I've just moved in to my campus duplex and started a little project in the basement... The final structure is going to be a full free-standing cave. My original design was a small 45d 8' wide 7' tall single face, but with the help of a friend with bigger dreams and convincing me to dig deeper into my pockets it has really evolved...

Some of the upcoming features...

wedge volume running the length of the roof (to incase the large pipe shown)
large triangle volume coming off the 45d pitch of the roof supports
Crack feature in backright corner

This is our progress after day 1

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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Aug 22, 2012
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.
Nice work. Looks like you have a nice space to work with. I'm impressed you got all that done in one day. Your framing is a bit unconventional, though.

A few suggestions: normally the joists are spaced much more closely (12" for 2x4, 16" for 2x6), oriented vertically, and the 2-by dimension is oriented to face the plywood.

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By jjhellstrom
From dayton, oh
Aug 22, 2012


Here is a video of the wall and a shameless plug for my little stud. Chalk really works:-)

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By skeeter
From Lakewood CA
Aug 22, 2012
coldatom, i made a similar wall awhile back that is adjustable. how is yours holding up at the base of the adjustable portion of the wall?

side 1
side 1



side 2
side 2


since these photos, I have painted the wall, added more holds,put hangers on the wall to practice hanging and clipping (and teaching my kid to lead climb) and reinforced the base because pressure cracks were beginning to form (the reinforcements seem to have worked). Although the wall is adjustable on the chains it does not shake at all.

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By Luke Wilken
From Cincinnati, OH
Sep 10, 2012
So I've just about finished the framework and I'm wondering the best way to do face and paint the wall?

I'm probably going to drill all my holes, then paint a base coat and possibly airbrush work, then install the T-nuts for the cleanest look/easiest assembly.

Wondering if painting before adding the T-nuts will make that a hastle or what, also what do you guys think for T-nut density?

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By Monty
From Golden, CO
Sep 10, 2012
Just a teaser
>


THAT KID IS AWESOME!!!!!

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By done77
Sep 10, 2012
Darren that looks awesome... I think I'm gonna have to replicate that!

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By Jeff swear
From hesperia, ca
Sep 18, 2012
hangar 18
Just finished mine three days ago. 8x8 wall with kicker and small roof portion. Used Three ball climbing holds. The wall is a 25 degree angle.

wall
wall



wall 2
wall 2



wall 3
wall 3

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By Michael Dickinson
From Park City, ut
Sep 18, 2012
All righty then... I will start construction on my wall tonight. As I live in an apartment I will go with as much of a free standing wall as possible. Thank you all for showing your woodies to me....wait, what?

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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Sep 18, 2012
Monomaniac wrote:
Your framing is a bit unconventional, though.


That's a nice way to say it. Lots of baffling things going on there, but looks like it will be a fun little cave...might be like climbing in an earthquake with the flex, or you might keep popping screw heads or t-nuts...good reason to get light I guess.

I really like what Matt Roberts has up there. Ideally it would have one more 4'x8' panel higher (basically the Moon system board), so you could get another couple moves, but the symmetrical setup is what I would do if confined to a 8' width.

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By Genghis314
Sep 19, 2012
A group of us at a deployed location found an old empty Conex box and enough wood laying around to build a decent little woody inside the Conex box. With a few split unit A/C units and a few boxes of holds we've got a pretty decent bouldering area in the land of sand.



Woody in a box
Woody in a box


Woody in a box 2
Woody in a box 2

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By Woodchuck ATC
Sep 19, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
Genghis314 wrote:
A group of us at a deployed location found an old empty Conex box and enough wood laying around to build a decent little woody inside the Conex box. With a few split unit A/C units and a few boxes of holds we've got a pretty decent bouldering area in the land of sand.


Nice job! I sent a box of holds to Afghanistan several years ago that got used on a night vision climbing wall there. Was very cool to see.

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By Michael Dickinson
From Park City, ut
Sep 19, 2012
Darren Mabe wrote:
Crackboard back in business:


As I am just starting to build my trad rack, are passive pieces difficult to remove from the 2x4 cracks?

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By Kenny Clark
From State College, PA
Sep 22, 2012
I just finished framing my wall. Now I just need to put the T-nuts in the plywood, and put the plywood on the framing. I have a question though, and I couldn't find the answer in the forums, so I thought I'd post here.

A little background:
I have an outdoor wall under my new deck. I don't really want to paint it if I don't have to though (maybe I'm just being lazy....). I've heard about the golf tees, and that doesn't really sound ideal, so if I need to do it, I want to do it before I put in the T-nuts, which will be soon.

Has anyone not painted their outdoor woody and later regretted it? I have some leftover stain from the deck; has anyone stained their plywood? Were you happy with the results?

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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Sep 22, 2012
Stabby
Wood kept outside needs to be sealed. Even the pressure-treated stuff will rot and warp with freeze-thaw cycles. Definitely paint/stain before installing the t-nuts, but after you've drilled the holes so you cover the sparring you get from drilling.
My last wall was outside. I used an old trick from art school by mixing in granite dust (usually free from a headstone shop) to the paint, added a nice bit of grip to the wall surface. Assuming you can get behind it, plumbers putty is the best way to plug the t-nuts for painting; you push the plugs out from behind.

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By Woodchuck ATC
Sep 22, 2012
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008
...or paint all the boards before you drill all the t-nut holes. Easier than packing and cleaning them out later. My outdoor wall has had only 2 boards partially rot out after 16 years in the yard. That's with rain and snow, cold and heat on it. Repaint about every third year so there is a good 'waterproof' coating over the boards.

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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Sep 22, 2012
There is no reason to paint your wall, ACX plywood is exterior rated. I would attempt to waterproof the back side. Either by applying a dry decking product to the under side of your deck or acrylic roofing panels to the back/top side of the wall. Worst case, tack a tarp to the back side. I am assuming you have at least a slightly overhanging wall.

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By Couloirman
From Providence, RI
Oct 9, 2012
speedriding vail pass
Had to really switch up my setup. I'm rocking the "Blank Slate Slim" right now with a Beastmaker 1000. LOVE IT! I like the Beastmaker 2000 more but there's not enough for me to warm up on on that board so the 1000 is on there for now. No holes in the wall, take it down when I want, mostly stable once you get used to it. I can't do forceful quick pull ups on it or it flexes enough to make me scared, but dead hangs and slow controlled pull ups are no problem. I highly recommend Blank Slate if you want an easy hangboard setup, and don't want to damage the walls. No affiliation, I pay full price for everything, just a happy user sharing a good product.

EDIT: I dont know what happened to the pic, it is upright on my computer, why is it sideways here? Oh well, you get the idea.

Blank Slate Slime/Beastmaker 1000
Blank Slate Slime/Beastmaker 1000

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By coldatom
From Cambridge, MA
Oct 9, 2012
Jurassic Park
Scott, I don't see any problems at the adjustable joint. My hinge set up is a little different than yours. I use 4 door hinges, and they are attached in the plane perpendicular to the wall so that the hinge is fully closed when the wall is completely vertical.

Scott Gardiner wrote:
coldatom, i made a similar wall awhile back that is adjustable. how is yours holding up at the base of the adjustable portion of the wall?

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By Steve M
From MN
Oct 10, 2012
My woody
My woody

Finally finished tonight!

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