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What do you carry peak bagging
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Nov 29, 2011
coop wrote:
What is your favorite/best thermos?


One I got for "free" from Green Mountain Coffee Roasters for signing up for the caffeine addict club. ~.5L thin job with a basic screw on top and small cup. Metal body and double vaccum flask. It is Thermos brand and I've had good luck so far. This bad boy (but in GMCR green)
Nathan Stokes
Joined Oct 20, 2008
439 points
Jan 28, 2012
i wear leather boots, a wool flannel, snowboarding pants, and carry a flask of whiskey. generally works for me! Ben Philbrick
From lucerne, switzerland
Joined Jan 5, 2012
28 points
Jan 28, 2012
Nameless boulder on the edge of the Holy Boulders ...
coop wrote:
What is your favorite/best thermos?


Thermos brand makes a spill-proof, stainless steel model called the Nissan that comes in 16 or 32 fl oz sizes. Keeps my coffee hot for the entire day.

+1 to the mylar foil blanket (a little noisy, but better than freezing)
Lorenzo Tragen
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Jun 23, 2011
174 points
Jan 28, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
johnL wrote:
I hate the term peak bagging. It's glorifying walking up a mountain in shitty conditions. The English have the proper term, Hill Walking. Peak bagging is an insecure American way of saying the same.


And yet they make a whole bloody film about some git what walked up a hill and came down a mountain. Peak bagging glorifies the activity? It seems like a pretty inconsequential way to put it. What about conquering mountains? Just like Ned Beatty says in Deliverance. "We beat that didn't we?"

"You don't beat the rivah. You don't beat it."

Beatty frowns.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,494 points
Jan 28, 2012
Nathan Stokes wrote:
what people carry for winter day trips:


So while on approach my set up is as follows for a warm days above 20F; if its cooler than I put on a fleece layer while hiking.

In pack:
50 L pack
8 Ice screws
4 draws 4 screamers
1 or 2 60m ropes depending on the routs we are planning to climb
harness
anchor building slings (for trees) and V thread cord with a few rap rings
belay device
ice tools (nomics)
Crampons
wind stopper jacket
fleece pullover
hard shell
two pair of gortex climbing gloves 1 pair of fatty belay mittens.
2 L water and food
helmet

Wearing:

top and bottom smart wool base layer
insinuated pants
water proof pant
gaiters
wool socks
La Sprotiva Trango extreme boots
wool mix hat
$10 Coscto gloves.
Polarized sun glasses
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Jan 30, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
screamers = useless superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 30, 2012
superkick wrote:
screamers = useless


That may be, but seeing one of those on a ice screw in hollow shit ice gives me a warm fuzzy feeling; enough to keep mw=e climbing any way. I feel that if they ease the mental crux its good enough.
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Jan 31, 2012
Me in the cascades
for day trips such as Mt hood.

26-30L pack:
foam pad as frame
2 quarts water or 1 quart and stove depending on weather and route
down or synthetic puffy
snacks
map and compass
small first aid kit
BD guide gloves
W/B shell
sunglasses
sunscreen

Wearing:
mammut champ pants
smart wool mt socks
merino wool T-shirt
Patagonia R1 hoody
Helmet
Boots (one from the quiver depending on route and weather)

If longer trip overnight such as Rainier add:
40B NWD pack to replace smaller one
sleeping bag
3/4 thermarest
stove and fuel (jet boil)
little bit of food
Tent maybe

and for both
crampons
Ice axe or tools
with friends rope and pro
Danielyaris
From Salem, OR
Joined Jun 12, 2011
20 points
 
Jan 31, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
screamers are just extra weight to be carrying... and honestly never heard of anyone using them in mountaineering. Ice climbign fine (if thats your thing)... but mountaineering no.

You know the saying if you bring bivy gear youll probably end up bivying? Same logic applies to screamers imo... youre probably going to fall.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 31, 2012
superkick wrote:
screamers are just extra weight to be carrying... and honestly never heard of anyone using them in mountaineering. Ice climbign fine (if thats your thing)... but mountaineering no. You know the saying if you bring bivy gear youll probably end up bivying? Same logic applies to screamers imo... youre probably going to fall.


I guess it depends of what you are doing... for me mountaineering is more than a hike in the snow up a hill. I useally pick routs that end up with a pitch or two of WI 4-5 climbing. SO I feel that screamers are usefull for those marginal ice screws or small stopper placements when the ice is too thin for screws.

here ya go some light reading.
montanaice.com/iceguide/gallat...
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
Jan 31, 2012
Me in the cascades
superkick wrote:
screamers are just extra weight to be carrying... and honestly never heard of anyone using them in mountaineering. Ice climbign fine (if thats your thing)... but mountaineering no. You know the saying if you bring bivy gear youll probably end up bivying? Same logic applies to screamers imo... youre probably going to fall.



Lots of people use them in the PNW mountaineering including me though I didn't have any photos.

a photo from cascadeclimbers.com
from member YcoumRidge

Her trip report
cascade climber thread
Danielyaris
From Salem, OR
Joined Jun 12, 2011
20 points
Jan 31, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
Jeff J wrote:
I guess it depends of what you are doing... for me mountaineering is more than a hike in the snow up a hill. I useally pick routs that end up with a pitch or two of WI 4-5 climbing. SO I feel that screamers are usefull for those marginal ice screws or small stopper placements when the ice is too thin for screws. here ya go some light reading. montanaice.com/iceguide/gallat...




Come on who really considers hiking up a snow covered hill mountaineering ;) Seriously though, screamers are useless imo. If you feel you need that "added mental safety" of a screamer to get up a route, you shouldnt be climbing that route, because you clearly lack the confidence to do so. If you dont fall (which you never should) screamers server no purpose. They are just extra weight. useless.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 31, 2012
Batman Pinnacle
Mark Twight recommends screamers. Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
25 points
Jan 31, 2012
Whiskey JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
204 points
Jan 31, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
What Would Mark Twight Do? superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Jan 31, 2012
WWMTD?
First of all the man SAYS to use screamers but he also DID alot of things including some pretty serious soloing. I don't know what to think about him using screamers now...

BUT I bet he would say we should get off our collective a$$es and put up a route that nearly kills us, or that we should go solo something or he might say we're the mediocre scum that are ruining the sport or he might say none of us are allowed to train at his gym.

Couldn't resist.
Wannabe
Joined Nov 22, 2010
144 points
 
Jan 31, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
the last part about none of us being allowed at his gym is definitely true. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Feb 1, 2012
high e
No offense to anyone talking smack about screamers. You are entitled to your opinion as is everyone. However your logic is a little skewed, That or you don't understand the fundamental use of a screamer in an alpine environment.

Screamers have been proven to greatly reduce the amount of force put on the climber and their protection due to a fall. People have used them for a long time on ice screws and or pickets. Why? Well a lot of the times higher altitude ice is often brittle or awfully aerated. This means its often weaker then waterfall ice at lower elevations.

I don't know about you guys, but if I can enlarge my safety margin by carrying a screamer instead of a quick-draw, hell yea I'll do it. If that makes you think I am somehow not "good" enough or lack the skill to climb my intended route, then so be it. I'm not sure that anyone who is getting out and climbing routes using screamers (WI, Mixed, Alpine, Trees, Grassy hills, etc) really takes our opinions into consideration. Just an observation. I hate how people somehow correlate the use of specific safety gear that you may not use yourself, into the person in question somehow not being as good as a climber as you. In fact, they're probably better. And if somehow simply utilizing a screamer means your going to fall, well then I'm glad I don't use them! ;p

PS...you can bet your bottom dollar that when I head up liberty ridge I'll have 2-3 screamer instead of quickdraws for use up high crossing the berg.
cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Feb 1, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
Im not saying anything about being a better climber, or using screamers makes you a bad climber. thats perosnal preference, which imo they are useless. But when I crack my head open feel free to say I told ya so.

Im just saying (and this was stated further up in the thread) that if you need to use screamers on a route to give you mental security, you shouldnt be climbing that route, since you clearly lack the confidence to do so.
superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Feb 1, 2012
high e
i guess we can agree to disagree. lol. I guess I didnt clearly explain myself. Me personally, I wouldnt use screamers to give me more confidence to climb a M9, but I would use them where a fall would be potentially lethal. I guess thats what I meant. cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Feb 1, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
so you use them on everything you climb since all falls are "potentially" lethal? lol... I get what youre saying. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Feb 1, 2012
high e
nooooo LMAO. I actually dont own any. I used to, but didnt use them much so i sold em. I mean i would probably use them where I potential screw failure would cause a ground fall...or something. maybe. i dunno. it depends. hahaha cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points
Feb 1, 2012
I usually take a shit load of condoms

for all the pussies on a hill
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
Feb 1, 2012
johnL wrote:
I hate the term peak bagging. It's glorifying walking up a mountain in shitty conditions. The English have the proper term, Hill Walking. Peak bagging is an insecure American way of saying the same.



I think it's also called 'fellwalking' -- the first few accident reports read I started off thinking, these people are friggin idiots, but then, well, nevermind, that was pointless; anyway 'fellwalking'
Buff Johnson
Joined Dec 19, 2005
1,494 points
 
Feb 2, 2012
high e
What does everyone use for weather updates on the bigger mountains? Take Rainier for example. Sometimes I get spotty cell service, most of the time I get nothing. Maybe Some kind of tiny tiny AM/FM receiver? cms829
Joined Aug 16, 2011
126 points


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