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Wharepapa South

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Wharepapa South  


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Location: -38.1428, 175.53011 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,574
Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Just another day in Wharepapa South

Description 

Sitting in the center of this strip of climbable rock is a small town that goes by the name of Wharepapa (‘WH’ is pronounced as a soft f – Fah-rey papa) South. You won’t find a market, or cellphone reception, or even a gas station here, but you will find a climbing shop boasting the largest selection in the country. Bryce runs a café/climbing shop/ hostel; he has clean dorm/private rooms or camping, a huge kitchen, a bigger gear shop, a bouldering cave for the occasional wet day, and his wife cooks up a damn fine pie in the café. In full disclosure I have no financial attachment with Bryce’s business: I simply stayed at his place for a couple weeks and I climbed with the guy a few times. I absolutely loved it there. To be fair, there is another accommodation option just down the street at Castle Rock. A farmer thought he’d make a buck and start charging people to climb on the routes other people established. Now he’s built a hostel of sorts, complete with tennis courts, a shelf of advertisements for touristy things to do in New Zealand, and a ticket booth to allow you access to the worst climbing I did in the country. If that’s your thing have at it, just don’t ask him anything about the climbing, he has no clue.

Wharepapa puts you in the center of most the established areas in the region with two crags in walking distance, four or five more within a 10 minute drive, and literally thousands of established routes within an hours drive. The potential for route development here is absolutely astounding.

Please keep in mind that you’re in farm country, and you are climbing on private land, most of which are working farms. The farmers here have allowed total strangers to come onto their land to climb, asking nothing in return (with the exception of one farm whose name I won’t mention *cough* Castle Rock *cough*) except that you respect their land and obey a few simple rules. As a general rule when you’re on farmland:
• Leave all gates as you found them. Entry gates would almost always be closed but internal gates may be open or shut depending on where the herds are grazing.
• Leave the livestock alone and stay especially clear of steer (beef cattle). They’ll think you’re there to feed them and 100 cows can stir up quite a ruckus when they’re hungry.
• No dogs. Period.
• No camping. There is camping at the school next to Bryce’s café. Talk to Bryce for accommodation.
• You’re on farm soil, that dirt you just laid your rope in is largely composed of decaying fecal matter. Something to think about before putting that rope in your mouth to high-clip. Bring a tarp. Better yet, clip at your waist.

You can get up to date info and printable guides for the local areas at www.freeclimb.co.nz, or better yet just stop at Bryce’s Outdoor Center to get any beta you can imagine. His name appears on half the damn routes in every guidebook I’ve seen in the area. He’s a climber, first and foremost, and loves to talk climbing. He’ll give you good beta on just about anything.

Getting There 

From Hamilton head south on the 3 about 45 minutes to Te Awamutu. From Te Awamutu go east about 30 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.2 miles from here

95 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',43],['1 Star',25],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',10],['5.8',9],['5.9',16],['5.10',37],['5.11',12],['5.12',5],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wharepapa South:
Millennium Madness   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 90'   Main Cliff : Millenium Wall
The Arches   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 100'   Main Cliff : The Arch Area
Terror Incognito   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Froggatt's Edge : Main Wall
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 90'   Froggatt's Edge : Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Wharepapa South

Featured Route For Wharepapa South
Millennium Madness

Millennium Madness 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : Millenium Wall
An area classic. Climbs a thin finger crack in a right-facing corner that leads up to a roof with some good hand jams and ample feet. Pull around the roof and up to the belay anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Wharepapa South Slideshow Add Photo
Bryce's cafe and climbing shop is indeed the center of the North Island climbing universe.  If you hang around the place long enough, you just might get the chance to help out with a little yard work...
BETA PHOTO: Bryce's cafe and climbing shop is indeed the cente...

Comments on Wharepapa South Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Dec 19, 2009
Bryce Martin - As a climber, he's a living legend. As a person, he's all that and more... and I concur his wife does make wonderful pies.
By Aaron Hartig
Oct 7, 2010
So I've been looking at info on Froggatt's Edge and wondering if you can camp near the crag. I know Bryce's hold some accommodations but what about popping a tent?
By Carmilla
Feb 25, 2011
Literally, just around the corner from Byrce's, you will find camping at Wharepapa South School which is a hop, skip and a jump from Froggatt (less than five minutes if you drive)...
$4 / person / night secures you a grassy patch to pitch your tent, a sheltered cooking area with picnic tables, a flushing toilet, a cold shower and use of the school swimming pool if it is summer!
This can be paid for, either at the school office or at Byrce's when you purchase your morning coffee.... It's a neat little camping area predominately used by climbers....
By climber57
Oct 17, 2013
What are the crowds like here?
By Cameron Fraser
Administrator
Oct 20, 2013
No problems with crowds. There are about several thousand climbs in the North Island of NZ (more in the South) and not that many climbers