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The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alcove Cracks T 
AP Treat T 
Beast 666 T 
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 
Browns Fist T 
Cerberus T 
Effigy T 
Energy Crisis T 
Lower Refuse T 
Maid in the Shade T 
On Crack T 
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T 
Welton's Corner  T 
Whack-A-Mole T 
Wild T 
Wildabeast T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X

Type:  Trad, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c X [details]
FA: gill/callaghan
Page Views: 1,162
Submitted By: john strand on Oct 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Wall left of AP Treat. Does Whack-A-Mole go direc...


Not a death route but close. You can fall off and live (ask Tom) just not at the end. Good thing that the crux is near the bolt. Still hard climbing after the bolt though is very dangerous. TR after doing AP.


Left of AP Treat at a small flake the center of 3 one bolt routes.


A small rp and a bolt

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2014
By jim.dangle
Jul 17, 2013

Is this the same route listed in Handren's book as Sticks and Stones? That one is similarly 5.11a X and has a similar exciting backstory (Tom Callaghan falling from the top but being kept from a ground fall by Chris Gill). The whole slab left of AP treat is very dirty. Does this start directly up from the flake at the base (see pic)?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 18, 2013

yes.. i always go by the original name
By chinos
Jul 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

also known as sticks and stones.... this area has recently been cleaned! we also updated the bolt on this and the route to the right, Broken Bones (webster) or Piledriver (handren's).
A great top rope. not to many go for the lead tho!
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 29, 2014

maybe sticks & moles ?? or whack a stone
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jul 29, 2014

Jon, did you also scrub the route to the left, which Webster (3rd edition) lists as Slings & Arrows, 5.9+ R, FA unknown? That was one of mine, called "Maid in the Shade" for all the scrubbing I did prior to the FA, done in Spring 1986. I scrubbed it late one day, then the next morning convinced my girlfriend at the time (now wife of 27 years) to belay me while I led it ground up and placed the one bolt on lead. Only time she's ever put on a climbing harness. I thought it was 5.10- PG.
By jim.dangle
Jul 30, 2014

My favorite statistic for this short, dirty, quasi-death route is that John Strand has the second AND third ascents.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 30, 2014

With further investigation, maybe not the second..jeremy may have beat me to it. i was busy feeding TC beer.

I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up.
By chinos
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

I haven't cleaned it yet, but great to hear the history behind it! I think the bolt is missing or it's hidden under the green carpet somewhere. I will clean it up soon and look for the bolt.! Hope your doing good out there in CO. The east coast crew misses you guys!
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jul 30, 2014

Jon, that line was nothing special, but as I recall it was a decent addition to the slab as it was similar climbing but shorter, easier, and better pro. I looked for the bolt myself two years ago, from the ground, but couldn't see it for the forest of moss. There was an incipient crack that came down from the top, and the line started below it and followed the path of least resistance to reach it (pretty sure the crack took gear, but once you reached it the hard bit was done). I sorta remember a sloping ledge about 15' (?) off the deck to stand on where I placed a 1/4" x 2 1/2" split shank bolt to protect the next few crux moves. Probably long since plucked out by a passing raven or caterpillar...

And Strand, self awareness is a sign of something, but I'm not sure what. At least you can admit it to yourself.
By Bob A
Jul 31, 2014

Thanks for the history on this route.I was asking John s and TC about it this year and no one seemed to know much about it.
I have tried looking for that bolt on rappel and I am almost certain it is not there.
Yes that crack near the top will take great gear.I am sure between chinos and myself we can get this cleaned up and restored.
That will make 7 routes to climb in the AP area which should bring some interest and keep it a bit cleaner.
Maybe that bolt is hiding under all that moss!
any history on that 5.5 flake to the left of Maid in the Shade?
I cleaned it up and led it in May but have not posted anything due to unknown history.
By jim.dangle
Jul 31, 2014

Quote from Strand: "I have led this several times..i guess that means I'm a bit fucked up."

It means you're fucking awesome, John. Well within your abilities. I thought for a second about leading it but the climbing up high is still pretty thin. There's too much time to stop and worry on slabs. Soloing them is seriously heady and bravo to anyone that can do it.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 31, 2014

Time for the traverse ? L-R finishing up AP would be the best pro by far
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Jul 31, 2014

Bob, regarding the corner to the left, I am certain that back in the early eighties it was thick in moss and I was more interested in the slab potential, though never took it further than Maid in the Shade because of the work scrubbing. I am also certain that when you clean straight down from the crack, and maybe slightly climber's left (?) that you will see an obvious sloping stance where you can look for the bolt or hole about 7' above that. I think it was just high enough to prevent a ground fall on your way to the crack. Pretty sure the crack took a good piece down low, now that I think about it.
By Bob A
Aug 1, 2014

I gave it a good first scrub yesterday 7-31-14.The bolt is not there but once we get a bit of rain I will head back to hit it again to try and find the bolt hole.I have an idea of the stance you may have had while drilling although there isn't anything that looked too comfy to stand on for too long!I may try cleaning a bit more to the left of what I did yesterday as you may have taken more of a diagonal line from the left up to the crack.

Yes,that crack will take some great gear just up from the bottom.

Regarding the flake on the left,i figured I must be the only one crazy enough to clean that thing up.Must have had too much time on my hands.Fun little climb though..
By chinos
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R

finally lead this thing last night! i have been waiting for the temps to drop and got some cooler temps just before dark. i got a little wigged out at the top when i made the mistake of looking down to see where the bolt was, but was able to finish it up without decking! My first scary route in this grade and i would recommend it to others who like this kind of stuff

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