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Plenty of pockets provide good holds for hands and feet if you can get your body in the right position. Follow the line of bolts diagonally up the rock towards the right. I would go ahead and clip the first bolt before you start and clip in because the beginning is one of the toughest parts of the climb, and you will find yourself rolling down the hill if you fall.
To the left of Look Ma, No Head!.
6 or 7 draws are good. Chains for anchors.
View from the top - Always the best part of Devils...
From: Knoxville, TN
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Great climb for the grade. As description says, clipping first bolt is essential, which can be done without a stick-clip. Due to the steep incline of the belay area, falling here wouldn't be pretty. Also, the first move is by far the crux of the climb. Once your body is positioned correctly after the first move though, the rest of the climb is a breeze - enjoy!