|Devil's Race Track
Plenty of pockets provide good holds for hands and feet if you can get your body in the right position. Follow the line of bolts diagonally up the rock towards the right. I would go ahead and clip the first bolt before you start and clip in because the beginning is one of the toughest parts of the climb, and you will find yourself rolling down the hill if you fall.
To the left of Look Ma, No Head!.
6 or 7 draws are good. Chains for anchors.
From: Knoxville, TN
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
After easily completing Little Wing, a 5.10b, it seems Wet Willie may be sandbagged considerably. We sticked clipped the first bolt, which is a good idea, but spent the next 30 minutes failing miserably at the first move or two. Eventually, we just walked away. If we were in fact attempting Wet Willie, and not some other route, then it's a doozy of a 5.10. I'm open to any BETA from someone anyone who has sended the route.