Wet Dreams 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar, 1974 |
| Submitted By: | Darshan Ahluwalia on Jul 9, 2007 |
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AJ on Wet Dreams. Photo by Kia Ravanfar
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Description This is described as "more of a nightmare" in the guidebook. On the contrary, its actually quite cool.
Wet Dreams ascends the steep upper right side of the wall directly above Flower of High Rank via an obvious wide right-arching crack.
The climbing consists of bomber hand jams and a tough move into a downward sloping slot that can fit your entire body. The final exit move out of the crack will keep your attention for the entirety of the short pitch.
Location You can get to Wet Dreams from Flower of High Rank or Etude. Belay above Flower's roof. Due to the route's traversing nature, it is impossible to TR.
Protection Finger to hand size cams.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Aug 26, 2007
| Where is the crux of this not often done variation? |
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 18, 2008
| The crux is probably getting into the slot...its downward sloping so its kinda hard to crawl into it... |
By Souljah
Aug 16, 2011
| Found the pod a little disorienting...the exit a tad thought provoking. Nice exposure.
ETA: I agree. Beached whaleing-it into the slot after a series of good jams felt like the crux. |
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