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Westwoods (Cockaponset State Forest)

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Westwoods (Cockaponset State Forest) Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 41.27605, -72.70947 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,284
Administrators: Morgan Patterson, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Feb 18, 2009  with updates from GLCT and 1 more
Forecast:
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Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Open project ya'll !

Description 

Westwoods is a unique area of coastal lowland forest littered with coarse granite ledges, outcroppings, and boulders left from the receding glaciers of the last ice age. The bouldering areas are scattered across two towns, Branford and Guilford and stretch from directly adjacent I-95 in Branford to the coastal marshes in Guilford.

Rock Climbing is allowed in the Cockaponset State Forest and all non Guilford Land Conservation Trust (GLCT) properties. There are no known bans on climbing in Branford. GLCT has no authority on State forest property to regulate activities despite some comments made otherwise.

Rock Climbing is not allowed on GLCT properties. Please obey all Land Trust rules.

The below map details all GLCT properties identified in the CT DEEP GIS data set in brown.

Green = State Park and Blue = Town Park where climbing is allowed. Brown = GLCT where climbing is prohibited. There may be other GLCT properties not indicated on this map.
Rock Climbing Photo: Known GLCT properties where climbing is prohibited...
Known GLCT properties where climbing is prohibited.

Getting There 

Located in Guilford (and into the Branford quarry) off I-95. Many entrances located off RT 1 near Bishops Orchards (great market). Map found here in PDF format- guilfordlandtrust.org/wordpres...

Climbing Season

For the CT Bouldering area.

Weather station 5.0 miles from here

30 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',12],['V4-5',7],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Westwoods (Cockaponset State Forest)
Rock Climbing Photo: Just getting through the crux on the FA send, Apr/...

You Might Not Make it to the Gables V4 6B CT : CT Bouldering : ... : Geriatric Ward
The line follows some decent, grippy holds and high feet, to an obvious horizontal crack. This is where the crux is, from the crack, you need to paste feet high on the wall and commit to two small crimps, until you make it to the right facing flake, from there it's easy street, with all positive holds, over the round lip. Suggest you either TR or practice the moves on TR before making an attempt. Video of the original ascent (wide angle of the GoPro does the height of this line no justice@SEMICO...[more]   Browse More Classics in CT

Photos of Westwoods (Cockaponset State Forest) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: bunny boulder
bunny boulder
Rock Climbing Photo: cleaning up a new sunny spot
cleaning up a new sunny spot
Rock Climbing Photo: end of undone hard one
end of undone hard one
Rock Climbing Photo: yet another undone hard one
yet another undone hard one
Rock Climbing Photo: homeless camp
homeless camp

Comments on Westwoods (Cockaponset State Forest) Add Comment
Show which comments
By czd
Dec 6, 2010
This place is pure untapped potential. TONS of boulders and cliffs. Some stunning crack lines (up to 40-50 feet) and so much bouldering. Really great rock and its all condensed and accessible by trails. I don't know how this place hasn't gotten more attention...
By FooDawg
From: New Haven, CT
Dec 17, 2011
We were out there today, It's pretty sharp pink granite because of erosion. Tears your fingertips up worse than anything else in CT. Needs a LOT of attention and love to clean and set here. I can see why people could get turned off by this type of rock.
By T Roper
From: DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
Dec 18, 2011
Some people hate it, some are OK with it. It does toughen the hands and would be great training for a trip to Joshua Tree. If only there were more Frankenrocks around...
By Cricket
From: From the heart
Feb 18, 2013
Yeah I agree it's got tons of rock but its not the nicest to touch. Seems to be earning a lovable reputation with the locals ... It's nice to know when your out there putting up problems that other people actually do the same out there. It gets lonely out there sometimes. There's a couple real nice cracks on my hit list... I better get them done sounds like.
By GLCT
Mar 19, 2016
Please note that rock climbing is not permitted on Guilford Land Conservation Trust property.

For acceptable land use, please see:
guilfordlandtrust.org/wordpres...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 22, 2016
GLCT, Thanks for your note, but why exactly is bouldering not allowed on the trust property? Is it potentially a lack of understanding about bouldering on the part of the trust managers? I don't see any legitimate liability issue and to my mind, while mountain biking is allowed, that seems more destructive and potentially dangerous, so it seems capricious. If a good dialogue is maintained with the climbing community I don't see how bouldering is an incompatible use and climbers wouldn't be alienated from supporting such trusts.
By Rick Torre
Sep 7, 2016
Connecticut climbers should appreciate the compliment to their no trace ethics.westwoods climbing predates my own experience which starts 67,68.climbers have not damaged natural features,distured or removed vegetation,usedt.r.s for anchors,and always use clean protection in natural placements.there are perhaps twenty climbs and dozens of boulder problems,many climbed in complete solitude in the seventies.peace,rick torre.

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