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Bush Shark Area
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Westron Wynde T 

Westron Wynde 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mark Dalen, Mark Leonard 1980
Page Views: 1,543
Submitted By: Chuck McQuade on Jul 1, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Photo taken from between the second and third fir ...

Description 

Many consider the (5.9) variation of P3 to be one of the Sandia's best at its grade.

P1) Start up a thin-shallow crack passing two bolts (5.9). After the second bolt the terrain mellows allowing frequent pro. Belay just below a small roof.
P2) Surmount a small roof (5.8) working your way to a straight-in corner (5.11 R), most parties step left gaining a serious of small cracks to a ledge and a small fir tree. (5.10 R). Most climbers avoid both above variations and traverse further left beyond the small cracks. This variation climbs a small arete like feature eventually ending on a large ledge above a fir tree (5.8).
P3) Step right from the belay into a right facing corner system. The lower angled corner goes at (5.9). The further, more vertical corner goes at (5.10a). Both corner systems meet at a bulge. After the bulge head up to a second roof bypassing it on its left side. Head up through easier terrain to the top of the formation belaying from a well camo'd bolt.


Location 

Approx. 100 yards beyond the Busk Shark Spire. The route starts between the second and third of 3 big fir trees in a narrowing gully on a south facing wall. Look for the first of two bolts protecting delicate face climbing on P1.


Protection 

Standard Sandia's rack, doubles especially useful 0.3-#1 camelot. P2 belay requires some larger pieces: #2-3 camelot.



Photos of Westron Wynde Slideshow Add Photo
Tamara entering the stellar P3 (5.9)corner.  The corner system further right is the (5.10a) variation.
Tamara entering the stellar P3 (5.9)corner. The c...
Stewart at the roof on the 2nd pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Stewart at the roof on the 2nd pitch.
Comments on Westron Wynde Add Comment
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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jul 11, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The bolts on the first pitch are not on Westeron Wynde. It is a variation pitch that we thought was a first ascent in 2002 or so. As it turns out the line had already been climbed by Kevin Jaramillo a few years earlier without any bolts. He and I have talked about the existence of these bolts and possibly removing them since they are not circa the FA. One way or the other the bolts remain for now. It is a nice pitch one way or the other and probably harder than 5.9 as Chuck and Tamara suggest, my variation actually starts directly and climbs a steep awkward and thin lieback to gain the first bolt at about 10+. Kevin's route name for this line that actually goes on to the top of the wall separately than Westeron Wynde is Cabron 5.10 A2 4 pitches. I will try to post Kevin's routes on this wall and they will for sure be in the next addition of the Sandia Rock guidebook. There are several routes and variations on this wall in the vicinity of Westeron Wynde, all are worth doing. The original Westron Wynde line actually climbs the wide corner to the right, which is a bit scruffy and often wet then traverses left after clearing the wet bomb bay section about 80ft up.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 10, 2009

So that's what those bolts were...

Did this yesterday and was able to clean up some of the munge/dirt/trees/grass. The third pitch is pretty overgrown.

First pitch crux is a grunt...I had forgotten about that. Make sure to enjoy the second whining if they have a pack. :-)

Great pitch, fun day...except my buddy dropped my nut tool that I've had for almost 20 years...bummer.

Have fun!

Thanks for posting all the info John. See you around.

Jeremy

By docsavage
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 7, 2012

I'd be interested to know when the two P3 dihedrals began to be climbed separately. On first ascent the pitch started in the left dihedral, then traversed right for the finish....

By Bob Graham
Jun 9, 2012

Did this yesterday, really fun route! The first pitch has some classic wide climbing, the 2nd has a cool roof section leading you up to the tree belay. The 3rd pitch is awesome!