Westkante  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 450 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Season:  Spring/Summer/Fall Submitted By:  Dan G0D5H411 on Jan 10, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Approximate belays and route path

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Description 

Westkante ascends the western ridge of the Geierwand, taking advantage of a long crack system. The adventure begins where this system peters out and you are forced into exciting arete-style climbing somewhat reminiscent of Moons of Pluto at Smith.

P1(5.5) Head up up into the cave, searching for the easiest way to traverse left and up the crack to a belay bolt. Gear, 80 ft.

P2(5.8) Continue up the cobbles on the face, passing a small roof, 1 bolt and gear in the crack to your right. Stretch this pitch out to belay above the termination of the crack. Gear, 1 bolt, 180 ft.

P3(5.10a) Face climb up right and back left towards the ridge. Although shorter, this pitch and the following are airy and exciting! 5 bolts, 90 ft.

P4(5.10a) Techinical face/arete climbing up the sharp edge. 4 bolts, 60 ft.

P5(5.8) As you approach the top, the climbing slabs out, providing great views of the area. 2 bolts, 80 ft.

Location 

Approach: From the base of the south side of Geierwand, walk left towards the west ridge. Start up on a small shelf, aiming for the obvious cave and crack above.
Descent: 3 rappels take you down the north side chimney/gully and a short bushwhack back to your packs.

Protection 

A light rack with a single set of nuts and cams from fingers to fists. Extra slings to prevent rope drag and equalize belays using a single bolt on the face and gear in the crack. Double ropes for the descent. All belays and rappels are from standard Meteora single, beefy glue-ins.

Photos of Westkante Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: The initial crack

From the top, looking back at Kelch.