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"Westkante," Glueck Arete. T 

"Westkante," Glueck Arete. 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1650'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ferdinand Glueck, et. al. 1920
Season: Warmer weather and dry rock.
Page Views: 117
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 14, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line of the Route in red.


The route begins on the Northwest side of the formation and after 3 pitches, reaches the arĂȘte; move to the right (the crux is a traverse beneath some overhangs on a steep face on pitch 3 and is 5.6/5.7, UIAA Gr. IV+). Another very steep section and overhang is overcome before reaching another bolted anchor. At this point the difficulty decreases along with the angle of the rock. The remaining 8-9 leads are on very good, juggy rock.


The formation is reached from Wolkenstein/Daunei parking area by a path leading to the Juac Hut and continuing on towards the Regensburger hut. Look for a climbers path that leaves the trail and ascends through the trees to the scree slope beneath the formation. Approach the left side as viewed from afar.
The descent continues over the summit to the Stevia Plateau and a climbers path is followed to the Juac Hut, and then to the car.


Most belay stances (but not all!) are equipped with either cemented-in-place pitons or bolts. Bring a normal alpine rack and runners for threads or tie-offs for knobs.

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