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Torre Firenze
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"Westkante," Glueck Arete. T 

"Westkante," Glueck Arete. 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1650'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ferdinand Glueck, et. al. 1920
Season: Warmer weather and dry rock.
Page Views: 31
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Oct 14, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Approximate line of the Route in red.

Description 

The route begins on the Northwest side of the formation and after 3 pitches, reaches the arĂȘte; move to the right (the crux is a traverse beneath some overhangs on a steep face on pitch 3 and is 5.6/5.7, UIAA Gr. IV+). Another very steep section and overhang is overcome before reaching another bolted anchor. At this point the difficulty decreases along with the angle of the rock. The remaining 8-9 leads are on very good, juggy rock.

Location 

The formation is reached from Wolkenstein/Daunei parking area by a path leading to the Juac Hut and continuing on towards the Regensburger hut. Look for a climbers path that leaves the trail and ascends through the trees to the scree slope beneath the formation. Approach the left side as viewed from afar.
The descent continues over the summit to the Stevia Plateau and a climbers path is followed to the Juac Hut, and then to the car.

Protection 

Most belay stances (but not all!) are equipped with either cemented-in-place pitons or bolts. Bring a normal alpine rack and runners for threads or tie-offs for knobs.


Photos of "Westkante," Glueck Arete. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the very top...Class 2 to the plateau
BETA PHOTO: Near the very top...Class 2 to the plateau
Rock Climbing Photo: North West Arete Torre Firenze - The skyline ridge
North West Arete Torre Firenze - The skyline ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Really Tough Approach Paths over There !
Really Tough Approach Paths over There !
Rock Climbing Photo: On top, on the plateau
On top, on the plateau
Rock Climbing Photo: About P3 - Catching Up to Another Party on the tra...
BETA PHOTO: About P3 - Catching Up to Another Party on the tra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheila Matz, near the top of P1
BETA PHOTO: Sheila Matz, near the top of P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at P2
BETA PHOTO: Looking down at P2
Rock Climbing Photo: S Matz on the last top Class 2/3 section
BETA PHOTO: S Matz on the last top Class 2/3 section
Rock Climbing Photo: On the Ridge!  About P5 or 6 we have passed the pa...
On the Ridge! About P5 or 6 we have passed the pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: On top...looking north
On top...looking north

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