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South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Nasty Gash 
A Song & A Prayer 
Crocodile Rock 
Hot Fudge Thursday 
Joanne of Arch 
Jubilant Song 
Marion's Melody 
Slabotomy 
St. Stephen 
Thriller 
Western Swing 
Windy Corner 

Western Swing 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FRA John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: The traverse on P3. Thin traverse on minimal pro. ...

Description 

About 50 feet down and right from the start of Jubilant Song is another right-facing dihedral. Climb this for two pitches to a belay spot by a bush at the base of a flared chimney. Climb the chimney until it squeezes down and arches to the right, then make a difficult swing move into the upper corner. Set up a hanging belay a short distance above. The fourth pitch traverses right to a weakness in the overhangs, then climbs up and left to a belay at the beginning of the big roof on Jubilant Song. Join Jubilant Song for two pitches until established in the gully above the roof. Instead of following the gully, climb the steep cracks on the wall to the left to the huge Bandstand Ledge on A Song and a Prayer. One or two easy pitches lead to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack plus a Number 5 Camalot



Photos of Western Swing Slideshow Add Photo
Dow on the P4 roof. After the roof head left and up over easier terrain to the Jubilant Song roof.
Dow on the P4 roof. After the roof head left and u...
S Face of Windy Peak
S Face of Windy Peak
Dow starting the P3 traverse
Dow starting the P3 traverse
P1, the arching lieback crack 50 ft to the right of Jubilant Song
BETA PHOTO: P1, the arching lieback crack 50 ft to the right o...
Dow checking out the barrel cactus on the approach.  Note the distinctive red boulders you will pass on the trail.
BETA PHOTO: Dow checking out the barrel cactus on the approach...
valley views
valley views
Dow at the P2 belay above the flaring chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Dow at the P2 belay above the flaring chimney.
looking down P1
looking down P1
Dow nearing the P3 belay
Dow nearing the P3 belay
P2. Dow avoided the bush belay and linked this up with the expando chimney pitch.  The only downside here is it's difficult to see the leader once in the chimney.
BETA PHOTO: P2. Dow avoided the bush belay and linked this up ...
another valley shot
another valley shot
Comments on Western Swing Add Comment
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By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Climbed this 12/10/11 with Xavier Wasiak in seven pitches. This is how we pitched it out:

P1 ~100' - stemming RF corner to belay at the obvious ledge with a tree. 5.8
P2 ~130' - RF corner through a bush (slung for rappel?) and in to the flared chimney. up the chimney to just before where the chimney closes. 5.9
P3 ~100' - traversed up and right away from the corner system towards the slot. good protection in the corner but thin as you traverse out right. up the slot to a large platform below the roof of Jubilant Song 5.10
P4 ???' - the arching traverse below the roof to a semi-hanging belay before the small roof exit. 5.8
P5 40' - pull the roof and head up the gully. belay on the first platform up and left of the gully. 5.8
P6 80' - this is where the route breaks away from Jubilant Song. head up the steep cracks above the platform. lots of loose white rock. summit the face and head right to an obvious crack to build an anchor. 5.6
P7 190' - Up the gully with the small tree. mostly 3rd class scrambling with a few 5th class moves.

We brought a BD #4 and #5 but didn't need either. Small cams through BD #3.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Dec 12, 2011

Was it good though? This thing looks sexy as hell but I had suspicions that this is Another Random "Eh" Red Rock Route. Comments on the quality?

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Yeah looks like we've all given it differing quality ratings. After climbing Jubilant Song and Western Swing I'd opt to climb WS again over JS. Reason being you get the fun chimney pitch of WS and the best pitch of JS (the traverse under the big roof). Not a classic, but if you want a long sunny route on a cold day this might be a better option than queuing up for the Solar Slab routes.