Western Swing 5.10
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| Type: | Trad, 8 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | FRA John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo |
| Submitted By: | Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dow checking out the barrel cactus on the approach...
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Description About 50 feet down and right from the start of Jubilant Song is another right-facing dihedral. Climb this for two pitches to a belay spot by a bush at the base of a flared chimney. Climb the chimney until it squeezes down and arches to the right, then make a difficult swing move into the upper corner. Set up a hanging belay a short distance above. The fourth pitch traverses right to a weakness in the overhangs, then climbs up and left to a belay at the beginning of the big roof on Jubilant Song. Join Jubilant Song for two pitches until established in the gully above the roof. Instead of following the gully, climb the steep cracks on the wall to the left to the huge Bandstand Ledge on A Song and a Prayer. One or two easy pitches lead to the top.
Protection Standard rack plus a Number 5 Camalot
S Face of Windy Peak
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BETA PHOTO: P1, the arching lieback crack 50 ft to the right o...
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valley views
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looking down P1
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BETA PHOTO: P2. Dow avoided the bush belay and linked this up ...
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BETA PHOTO: The traverse on P3. Thin traverse on minimal pro. ...
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BETA PHOTO: Dow at the P2 belay above the flaring chimney.
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Dow starting the P3 traverse
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Dow nearing the P3 belay
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Dow on the P4 roof. After the roof head left and u...
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another valley shot
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| Comments on Western Swing |
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By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10
| Climbed this 12/10/11 with Xavier Wasiak in seven pitches. This is how we pitched it out:
P1 ~100' - stemming RF corner to belay at the obvious ledge with a tree. 5.8
P2 ~130' - RF corner through a bush (slung for rappel?) and in to the flared chimney. up the chimney to just before where the chimney closes. 5.9
P3 ~100' - traversed up and right away from the corner system towards the slot. good protection in the corner but thin as you traverse out right. up the slot to a large platform below the roof of Jubilant Song 5.10
P4 ???' - the arching traverse below the roof to a semi-hanging belay before the small roof exit. 5.8
P5 40' - pull the roof and head up the gully. belay on the first platform up and left of the gully. 5.8
P6 80' - this is where the route breaks away from Jubilant Song. head up the steep cracks above the platform. lots of loose white rock. summit the face and head right to an obvious crack to build an anchor. 5.6
P7 190' - Up the gully with the small tree. mostly 3rd class scrambling with a few 5th class moves.
We brought a BD #4 and #5 but didn't need either. Small cams through BD #3. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Dec 12, 2011
| Was it good though? This thing looks sexy as hell but I had suspicions that this is Another Random "Eh" Red Rock Route. Comments on the quality? |
By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Dec 12, 2011
rating: 5.10
| Yeah looks like we've all given it differing quality ratings. After climbing Jubilant Song and Western Swing I'd opt to climb WS again over JS. Reason being you get the fun chimney pitch of WS and the best pitch of JS (the traverse under the big roof). Not a classic, but if you want a long sunny route on a cold day this might be a better option than queuing up for the Solar Slab routes. |
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