This is a fairly low angle climb up the western faces of the Bad Bananas formation. The climbing is not too varied but you get high up and can travel fast.
The crux is probably getting off the ground or maybe the second move. The first pitch is not too fun but the upper faces make it worthwhile.
This route crosses Be All That You Can Be, Good Plantains, Dancing With Feral Debutantes, and ends on Brain Full of Spiders, so you are basically just following the easiest way up the wall.
P1: You can reach the first bolt from the ground and is mostly to protect a tumble off of the ledge if you fall on the opening move. Once you clip the second bolt you traverse right for about 25 feet and join up with the end of the first pitch of Be All That You Can Be. Once you clip the anchors for Be All, traverse down and to the right for about 40 feet passing the second pitch of Be All and ending on a small rock ledge with a set of ring anchors.
P2: Follow the line of bolts up the steeper face crossing Good Plantains at the last bolt for the second pitch and ending on the 2-bolt anchor for Dancing With Feral Debutantes.
P3: Continue up Dancing With Feral Debutantes for 4 bolts and then stay right on the low angle slab instead of getting on the steep face. Follow 4 bolts up the slab until you meet up with the last 3 bolts of Brain Full of Spiders which ends on a set of ring anchors.
This route starts about 25 feet up and to the left of Be All That You Can Be in a small alcove where the green tillite rock ends and the white quartzite begins.
Walk off to the west down the ridge to the parking or to the east and down the gully to the water tank. You can rappel off but you need a 70 meter rope.
P1: 5.7, 100' 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P2: 5.7, 115' 12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
P3: 5.4, 115' 11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
Protection: 12 quickdraws, slings (to reduce rope drag), locking biners, and you will really want to bring a helmet.
|Comments on Western Front
|By Tristan Higbee|
Apr 17, 2010
I thoroughly enjoyed this route! I thought only the first couple moves on the first pitch were 5.7. Pitch two was awesome and felt like 5.6; moderate jug hauling at its finest! Pitch three was more of the same, though not quite as steep and interesting. I think this is a better route than Ledgarithm. It's cleaner, has better rock, and a better position. Overall, the route was just quick and fun fun fun.
Great job equipping this route, guys! It's super well bolted (with beautiful stainless bolts!) and would be a great route for beginning multipitch climbers.
We didn't bring any route info and didn't know we could rappel this route with a 70, so we did 4 rappels with a 70m rope down Brain Full of Spiders.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Apr 18, 2010
Good clean (mostly) fun! 2nd pitch was great fun. A good one for someone looking for a first multi-pitch.