Andy Welter leads the second pitch of Ecstasy Juni...
Description
This climb makes a nice way to bypass the Stairmaster and gain Luncheon Ledge - the ledge system where Triple S and most of the West Face routes are located.
P1: Traverse right on the ledge, then up a crack and ledge system to a spacious ledge with a few trees and rappel rings over The Burn (80ft).
P2: Climb the right facing corner system up and around a cave-like feature and V-slot to another spacious ledge with a tree. Belay here (80ft).
Location
Begin about 30 feet to the left of The Burn. Climb a short vegetated ramp to a smallish ledge with a sizable tree (10ft). Begin the climb here to avoid ropedrag. Descend by walking through a slot and head north to Luncheon Ledge and Triple S. You could also rappel from the tree (80ft), then from the anchors over The Burn (100+ feet, 60M rope with stretch required!!). Do the walkoff, it's safer.
This route is located on the West Face, not the South End. South End routes start from Ecstasy and go to around Candy Corner - Ecstasy Junior starts uphill from The Burn and stays on the south facing face of the West Peak of Seneca the entire way. The entry in the South End section should be removed. FWIW this route is listed in the West Face section of the guidebook, too.
A note about the rappel from the top of the first pitch - don't expect to make it to the ground on a 60 m. I tried this a few days ago. With stretch, I made it to the slabby, easy start and had to down climb about 8 feet of 5.2 or so. Not too big a deal, just don't be surprised. Fortunately, the area underneath is reasonably flat, so a little jump down is also an option. Definitely knot your rope ends, if you aren't in the habit (shame on you!).
Perhaps your rope is a bit short? Two days ago my partner and I and the party who had been ahead of us all reached the ground from the top of the first pitch with one 60 meter rope.
RSS Feed
Slideshow
