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South Peak - West Face

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Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn

5.10a

FA:	Marshall's Madness: Marshall, Christian, & Kauffman - 1955 Crack of Dawn: McLaughlin & Janoscrat - 1980
Type:	Trad
Consensus:	5.10a [details]
Length:	2 pitches, 200 feet
Views:	1,535 page views

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 19, 2007

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You and this route | Other Opinions (21)

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Face of a Thousand Pitons...MM climbs the dark col...

Description

While Marshall's Madness and Crack of Dawn are two separate routes, by far and away the most classic way to climb them is to link one into the other and that is how they are described here.

Begin near the arete left of Triple S.

P1: Climb steep rock to a belay stance (a short pitch).

P2: Continue up the cracks and step right to the overhang. Pull this overhang via a handcrack (steep, obvious from the ground) and continue to the top. Bolted anchor.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos of Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn

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Bryan pullling up through the bulge on Crack of Da...	Crack O' Dawn goodness	The opening moves of the mega classic marshalls ma...
Marshall's Madness on a beautiful day!	BETA PHOTO: Ben leading Crack of Dawn

Comments on Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn

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By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 19, 2007
rating: 5.10a

One of my favorite routes at Seneca. Take a few 3" cams for the superb jamming section.

By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Apr 4, 2007

Doing this in one long pitch is the way to go. Great climbing. Pumpy.

By Kris Gorny
Oct 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a

The FFA of Marshalls Madness was done in 1955!? Wow! Hemp ropes around the chest, hiking boots, and iron pitons. Hats off!

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.10a

While these two climbs share the same start, Marshalls is a fun climb in its own right straight up from the belay. Both are classics!

By Matt Desenberg
From: South Berwick, ME
May 21, 2009

Good amount of exposure up high on this one. Definately a Seneca classic, terrific line.