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South Peak - West Face
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West Pole 

West Pole 

5.7+

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 200 feet
Views: 1,533 page views

Submitted By: Brian Adzima on Oct 3, 2006


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Bob Batterman at the crux of West Pole. The best 5...


Description 

One of the best routes at Seneca, period. West Pole follows a more-or-less continues crack system through two roofs. It can probably be done in one pitch with a 70-meter rope.

P1: Climb up through the easy ledges to a pine tree. Belay either from rings (not advisable on a busy day) or gear.

P2: Follow the broken crack system until it runs into a corner at the bottom of the first roof. Go straight up through the roof and continue through the second. Follow a left-facing corner to a crack and then belay from rings.


Location 

West Pole begins at the same place as Old Man's and Conns West.


Protection 

Like most Seneca routes, West Pole protects well with passive gear. A double set of nuts and some hexes works fine. There are probably some pitons on the route; maybe some even of WWII vintage.



Photos of West Pole Slideshow Add Photo
Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Route.

BETA PHOTO: Some routes beginning at the base of Old Man's Rou...

Leading the twin cracks toward the West Pole roofs.

BETA PHOTO: Leading the twin cracks toward the West Pole roofs...

Me leading past the second roof of West Pole.

BETA PHOTO: Me leading past the second roof of West Pole.

Tanya following through the roofs at West Pole.

BETA PHOTO: Tanya following through the roofs at West Pole.


Comments on West Pole Add Comment
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By Mark Cushman
From: Erie, CO
Jun 14, 2007

One day when I was climbing a route nearby, two teenage girls headed up the trail and started racking up for Westpole. One of their fathers was a climber and had given them just enough gear to do Old Man's Route (5.2) - the route they TOLD HIM they were headed out to do. Instead they climbed Westpole with five nuts and two hexes!

By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
May 27, 2008
rating: 5.7+

You can climb it as one pitch with a 60m rope which is commonly done. A super classic and yes, its only 5.7+!

By Pete Hickman
From: Phoenix, az
Jun 26, 2008

I think I left a C3 cam in the bottom of the roof this morning.

By Jeremy P Franz
From: Medina, Ohio
Aug 10, 2008
rating: 5.7+

Great route, the direct finish (5.8) is exposed and enjoyable.

By dinglestyle
From: Catonsville, MD
Feb 20, 2009
rating: 5.8

Beware of the lose block right after the crux. I think it would be hard to pull it out, but you never know what a desperate person will do. Another Classic sandbag +=next grade up.

By Pete Gallagher
From: Manitou Springs, CO
Feb 20, 2009

Wait a minute...I thought West Pole was rated 5.6!

Seneca Rock Guidebook, Webster & Pleiss, 1975
Seneca Rock Guidebook, Webster & Pleiss, 1975
Submitted By: Pete Gallagher on Feb 20, 2009

(notes from my 1975 guidebook)

Sorry, old geezer will shut up now......get off my lawn!!!