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DescriptionThe west face of the south peak contains many classic routes at Seneca. Highly featured and often exposed, it faces the vistor's center and the telescope viewing platform located there. On busy days, arrive early or you may be waiting in line for the more popular starting routes. These include (from bottom to top) Ecstacy (5.7), Ecstacy Jr. (5.4), Triple S (5.8), Le Gourmet (5.4), Prune (5.7), Old Man's Route (5.2) and Thais (5.5). Getting TherePark near Roy Gap Road below the visitor's center on Route 33 or in the old parking lot to the north past the creek. If parking in the old lot, follow the well-defined trail up to Roy Gap Road. Hike up Roy Gap Road until a trail is visible across the creek to the base of Seneca. Cross the stepping stones on the creek and hike up the switchbacks to the South End. At the top of the wooden steps will be The Burn and Ecstasy Junior To gain access to the rest of the routes, follow the thighmaster up, up and up to a small pine grove, then east up a talus field. Follow a Y left for Le Gourmet and Old Man's Route, or right to go to Luncheon Ledge (below Triple S). The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Peak - West Face:
Old Man's Route 5.2 Trad, 3 pitches
Gunsight to South Peak 5.3 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Gunsight to South Peak Direct 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Conn's West 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Ecstasy Junior 5.4 Trad, 2 pitches, 160 feet
Front C 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Critter Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Thais 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet
Traffic Jam 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Pleasant Overhangs 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
Green Wall 5.7 Trad, 3 pitches
West Pole 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet
Prune 5.7+ Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Tomato 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 155 feet
The Burn 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 150 feet
Triple S 5.8+ Trad, 2 pitches, 90 feet
Back to the Front 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Sunshine 5.10a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Marshall's Madness - Crack of Dawn 5.10a Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Cottonmouth - Venom 5.10b Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet
Featured Route For South Peak - West Face
Traffic Jam 5.7 WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
The obvious crack system in Traffic Jam notch. Since the notch is usally full of people rapping off this can be a difficult climb to get on, becasue you belayer will be creating a Traffic Jam on the rap.The back wall is most certiainly off (no stemming) and going around the corner halfway is supposed to be cheating too.You can walk off by continuing north along the small ridge. You may want a a belay though....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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