This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.
Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt achnors. Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.
Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.
Location
Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.
Protection
Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.
Description
This long, continuously traversing climb is a good introduction to Seneca's East Face, and it crosses, and shares belays with many of the area classics. It begins on Upper Broadway about 40 to 50 feet left of the twin cracks of Castor and Pollux.
Pitch 1: Climb a right-trending ramp/flake and ledge system with a couple of trees. Pass the trees, finish the pitch in a chimney and end at bolt anchors. Pitch 2: Traverse up and right along the ledge to an imposing corner with a short vertical crack. Pass a scary bulge using some old fixed pro and use big jugs to move up to another ledge with anchors. This short pitch (and single 5.6 move) is the crux.
Pitch 3: Continue right along the ledge to an obvious flake and corner system that ends near the top of the route Gunsight to South Peak. From here, scramble to the summit.
Location
Descend via West Pole rap route or Traffic Jam rap route.
Protection
Some untrustworthy gear along the route, good anchors at each station.