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Simple J Malarky 

5.7

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 160 feet
Views: 108 page views

Submitted By: reddirtgirl on Jun 8, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: The second is approaching end of P1 at base of ram...


Description 

Want to do Ecstasy but there's a cue behind a slowly caterpillaring party of three? Here's your chance to do a stouter Seneca seven of equal or (arguably) greater quality.

P1: 35 ft. Short and possibly drippy (if rain was recent... P2 & 3 make putting up w/ any drippage worthwhile).
Start about 15 ft (give or take) to the right side of cave entrance. Stop at the beginning of the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

P2: 75 ft. Easy & exposed (if you want it to be).
Option a) climb up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.
Option b) get on the ramp by starting left of it, on the highly featured face... continue up the long, dark, frictiony ramp.

The ramp gets narrow in 2 places. In preparation for P3, it may be better to finish P2 past the second narrow section on the ramp.

P3: 50 ft. Short but stout (crux).
Climb up & right on the steep but featured wall to shuts that serve as the rap station for SJM & Ecstasy.

Descent:
option a) one of the coolest free hanging rap ever (150ft) during which one can check out the sporty 12's in the cave.
option b) scramble up & walk north to more climbs.
(Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn... area known as wall of a Thousand Pitons) or hike the switchbacks down the West Face trail.


Location 

From Roy Gap Rd cross creek & go up stone stair master. Upon reaching wood steps go right past Ecstasy & large cave. Start is approximately 15ft right of cave (or start on right side of cave for 5.8 variation).


Protection 

cams small to kinda big...
grey Mastercam thru blue/#3 Camalot

rusty pins scattered thru P2 & P3. Fixed stopper on P3.



Photos of Simple J Malarky Slideshow Add Photo
Red arrow points to rap for Ecstasy & Simple J Malarky. Free hanging rap is about 150 ft, give or take. Or you can walk north to the base of other climbs (Triple S, Marshall's Madness, Crack of Dawn... area known as wall of a Thousand Pitons). Belayer in white helmet is at start of pitch 3 for SJM. 2nd is in trees to left of cave. Photo by K. Mullen.

BETA PHOTO: Red arrow points to rap for Ecstasy & Simple J Mal...