Well, there was a fun move, then it got thin and not fun. Not for the short climber. (*Edited to Add, Michaels climbing partner that day is about 5'2" and she suffered up this climb, although we did think it was Scoot Your Muffin (5.10b).)
Bolts are poorly placed (*Edited to add and hard to clip if you are short, best to 'pink poin' this one.)
Roof system is funky and awkward at best, (*Edited to add, I did not climb this one, but I was just to the left climbing a few routes and Michael(A competent 5.12 climber and guide in the New) was suffering though this roof.)
Location
2nd farthest climb to the right on this awesome wall.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows Oct 15, 2007 rating: 5.10b
It sounds like maybe Michael is describing Moon Pie Deluxe, .10d and just left of Scoot. Scoot is an awesome climb with amazing roof jugs!
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 15, 2007 rating: 5.10d
Nick,
I was there with Michael when he climbed this, we looked in the guidebook and yet again it seems like Cater's guidebook steered us wrong. Thanks for the info. Please write a description for Scoot.
The bolts on Moon Pie Deluxe may be hard to reach for a shorter person, but they are very well placed to keep you from hitting the ledge below when pulling the crux. This route, in my opinion, is pretty stout for the 5.10c rating in the Cater guide, but is really a one or two move wonder. The bolt is right at your waist when pulling the crux with another only 4 ft away for you to clip when you reach the jug. Cool moves, give it a try! Unique moves compared to the others on Orange Oswald.
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