Start in a short low angle dihedralthat has a crack that seeps forever after it rains. make a few moves into a no-hands rest, clip your bolt and start the pumpy section fo the climb, the rest of it! Using jugs, and big crimps make the traverse quickly clipping as you go. Breathe and then get ready for the meat of the route, make a long reach off of some crimps (shorter climbers sometimes dyno, sometimes use a bad intermediate), then grab the big rounded lip, traverse out onto the arete bear hug it and get up a heel, make the hardest clip of your life (MUCH EASIER WITH PRE-HUNG DRAWS), then grab some jugs and fight the pump for the last 30 feet of this climb. Beware the pump crux--- Clipping the chains!
This climb is rated 5.12a, although I give it a 12a/b because I've never felt so worked after any other 12a, yet it isn't a technically demanding as many 12bs I've been on.
Protection
8 bolts to a three bolt anchor.
Location
This climb can be found on the left side of the huge cave at the short dihedral that is under a long wandering line of chalked holds.
I found that it was far easier for me to hang and make the 5th clip late, ie after the big move to the jug, and not have to deal with getting a heel onto that ledge and still having to lock off for the bolt. I'm 5'8"
As of now, there are only 5 bolts on the route, the only one I noticed missing was the 1st, so beware. The 3rd clip, a bad place to fall seems like it is the one mentioned as being easier to clip from above, I clipped it from small crimps to the right of the bolt. I don't know if this will change or not or if it is intentional.
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