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South Side

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Oct 10, 2007
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Views: 13,296 page views

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Climber taking a whip off the crux crimps of Minis...


Description 

In general the crags on this side of the gorge are cool, shady, stay wet, humid, and seepy.

Areas include (upstream to downstream)



  • Domino Point


  • South Bubba

This side of the gorge is a great place to come on a Hot summer day, during a big dry spell, if you are staying at Roger's or if you are looking for lots of sport climbing.

Not to say that the North side doesn't have variety but the South side HAS VARIETY! From the pure exploration and adventure climbing in South Bubba and South Nuttal to the highly gumbie style sport mecca of Kaymoor, even the very sunny Sunshine Buttress for those of you looking for a winter tan.


Getting There 

On the Fayettevill side, access to South Nuttal and South Bubba can be touchy so check in with Waterstone for the latest access beta.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Side:
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+     Sport, 90 feet   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Totally Tammy   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Rico Sauve   5.10a     Sport, 80 feet   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Low Voltage   5.10b     Sport, 70 feet   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Springer   5.10b     Sport, 75 feet   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
The Green Piece   5.10b     Sport   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
First Steps   5.10c     Sport, 90 feet   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Bimbo Shrine   5.11b/c     Sport, 75 feet   Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c     Sport, 90 feet   Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress
Lactid Acid Bath (LAB)   5.12d     Sport   Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Blood Raid   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Kaymoor : The Glory Hole
Browse More Classics in South Side

Featured Route For South Side
Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Blood Raid.

Blood Raid 5.13a  WV : New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole
A classic Doug Reed route, Blood Raid is one of the finest routes of it's grade at the new. Begin 10 ft. right of Lactic starting on easy moves to gain a ledge below the first of a series of horizontal roofs. Start cruising out the roof on a beautiful pancake flake eventually pulling out onto the face on crimps. Crank up the steep face and pull the final roof making a big move up to a good hold. Keep it together and clip the chain anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV