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Springer 

Springer 

5.10b

   

FA: Gelnn Ritter August '91
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 75 feet
Views: 180 page views

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 25, 2007


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Description 

Steep slab with very few positive holds in the crux that are placed just so that you really have to trust your feet.

The climb starts with some easy 5.5ish climbing and contiues almost all the ay to the roof, then you are hit by the crux. The crux comes just before the anchors with one long move that goes at 5.9+ but is very scary (for sport climbing).
Edited to add* While now I don't see this climb as scary, especially because the bolt is right there, I remember being quite scared the first time I led this one. Also the first time I led it the crimp right after the crux was super slick with green goo, and my hand blew off twice before I could latch the hold.

Delicate moves that rely far more on balance than strenght will guide you up this one, remember to use the force to levitate up the holds on this climb.


Location 

Right most route on the slab section.


Protection 

6 bolts to Cold Shuts.



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By Rafiki
From: Oneonta, NY
Oct 30, 2007

I dunno if I'd say that move was "very scary". I lead this my first time climbing outside and felt totally comfortable on it.

By Punter Brewster
Jul 21, 2009

I think it would be wise to remove the scary crux move comment. The bolt is right at your chest, and couldn't be better protected.