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Kaymoor

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
Administrator: Ladd Raine
Latitude: 38.1401  Longitude: -80.9201 
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Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Bl...


Description 

Amazing collection of sport routes on the rim with Northern exposure directly across from Diamond Point. Lots of steep routes, big holds and shady summer days make this area a favorite of summer Rock Climbing guides, Raft guides and locals alike.

Important to know: this area is shady and stays wet after rain for at leat a day.
Exception: there are many routes that don't get rained on, but seepage can be a problem.

Check out the Dr. Topo guidebook topo here


Getting There 

By Roger's campground (ask a local for directions (they are a little complicated)

or:

Follow a rafting bus to the lower new put in take turn left one street before they do

Basically, Kaymoor is south west of Fayetteville proper. Go through town (both lights) take your first left onto road name I can't remember, drive for 10 min take a left to Roger's Campground. Park. Hike north to rim, Climb.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Kaymoor:
Flight of the Gumbie   5.9+     Sport, 90 feet   Butcher's Branch
Totally Tammy   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
Rico Sauve   5.10a     Sport, 80 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
Low Voltage   5.10b     Sport, 70 feet   Butcher's Branch
Springer   5.10b     Sport, 75 feet   Butcher's Branch
The Green Piece   5.10b     Sport   Butcher's Branch
First Steps   5.10c     Sport, 90 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Bimbo Shrine   5.11b/c     Sport, 75 feet   Seven Eleven Wall
Sancho Belige   5.11c     Sport, 90 feet   Butcher's Branch
Pockets of Resistance   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Rico Suave Buttress
Lactid Acid Bath (LAB)   5.12d     Sport   The Glory Hole
Blood Raid   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   The Glory Hole
Browse More Classics in Kaymoor

Featured Route For Kaymoor
Chad Umbel going for a burn on the ulra classic Blood Raid.

Blood Raid 5.13a  WV : New River Gorge : ... : The Glory Hole
A classic Doug Reed route, Blood Raid is one of the finest routes of it's grade at the new. Begin 10 ft. right of Lactic starting on easy moves to gain a ledge below the first of a series of horizontal roofs. Start cruising out the roof on a beautiful pancake flake eventually pulling out onto the face on crimps. Crank up the steep face and pull the final roof making a big move up to a good hold. Keep it together and clip the chain anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV