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Fern Point
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Mellifluous 

5.11a

   

FA: Rick Thompson & Bob Value, Oct. 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 261 page views

Submitted By: DaveB on Apr 20, 2007


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Mellifluous (5.11a), a beautiful NRG classic!


Description 

Classic NRG route with good variety...crack (tips-fingers-hands), thin face/slab (crux), and steep flake (layback).

Climb crack to vertical slot mid-route. Protect well, solve slabby crux and move up face to nice horizontal. Then, follow left-leaning crack and flake to top. Crux is brief, but technical, and requires some thought.

Pro is good.


Location 

After descending Fern Point ladders, walk left through corridor along wall. Pass an arete/corner to the left and continue along Fern Point Slab area. Look for an obvious roof at the top of the cliff with a distinct right-facing flake. The route starts directly below in an awkward, shallow, flaring dihedral. Have fun!


Protection 

Small to medium pro. TCUs work nicely in spots. Anchor shuts found to the left (some crawling under roof may be required).



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By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11a

There is a good pee-nut or HB placement in the middle of the crux slab. This really helps to make the climb safer.

By Nick Stayner
From: Jackson, WY
May 2, 2008

I seem to remember small stoppers protecting the crux just fine, and maybe even a blue TCU before the "move".