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DescriptionIn general the crags on this side of the gorge are sunny, dry and have an earlier history than those of the South side. As a function of being climbed from an earlier date there are many more established routes on this side of the river than on the South side. This side of the gorge is a great place to come on a cool day, rainy day, shady day, morning, evening, or after soem rainy days. Getting ThereNorth Side of the gorge, across the bridge from Fayetteville. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for North Side:
Fantasy 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 120 feet Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area
New Yosemite 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet Junk Yard Wall
Super Crack 5.9+ Trad Beauty Mountain : Thunder Buttress
Chockstone 5.9+ Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress
Four Sheets to the Wind 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet Junk Yard Wall
Angel's Arete 5.10a R Trad, TR, 70 feet The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress
The Entertainer 5.10a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet Junk Yard Wall
Black and Tan 5.10a Trad, 80 feet Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area
Triple Treat 5.10a Trad, 70 feet Fern Buttress Area : Orchard Wall
Springboard 5.10b Trad, 70 feet Fern Buttress Area : Orchard Wall
Burning Calves 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Beauty Mountain : Burning Buttress
Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Stuck In Another Dimension 5.11a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet Junk Yard Wall
Mellifluous 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : Fern Point
Handsome and Well-Hung 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress
Marionette 5.11c PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet The Bridge Area Crags : Bridge Buttress
Leave it to Jesus 5.11c Trad, 100 feet Endless Wall : Diamond Point
Agent Orange 5.12a Trad, 70 feet The Bridge Area Crags : South Bridge Area
Tattoo 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Endless Wall : The Undeserved Area
Ride The Lightning 5.13b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Endless Wall : The Cirque
Featured Route For North Side
Spiderwand 5.10b WV : New River Gorge : ... : Burning Buttress
Awesome, acute corner that brings to mind a few routes I did in Yosemite. Pulls out under a big roof at the top on great jugs. Physical, but with good body english. Large hands are helpful... the bottom 40' were sort of strenuous cupped hands for me. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
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