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Fern Point
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Party in My Mind 
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Smooth Operator 

Smooth Operator 

5.9+

   

FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 157 page views

Submitted By: DaveB on Sep 27, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Smooth Operator (5.9+).


Description 

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Awkwardly ease into the crack from the right and commence jamming. Be ready to place gear as the crack is somewhat slick. Once beyond the fistcrack (crux), continue up into the flaring pod utilizing the generous horizontals and ledges. At the large chockstone, move left out onto the face and up into the left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to the top!


Location 

From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).


Protection 

Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.

No anchors. (There should be for this quality route.)
Rap from tree with 60m rope.



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Leader's view from the start.

BETA PHOTO: Leader's view from the start.


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By Jeremy Steck
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Oct 8, 2007

This route is usually wet. If you find it dry, get on it, it's good!