Rapscallion's Blues 

FA:  Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984) Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.10c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 65 feet Views: 484 page views Submitted By: DaveB on Jun 12, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)

Description 

A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.

Location 

Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.

Protection 

Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Anchors.