Adam Bomb bearing down on the high crux of Dial 91...
Description
Dial is one of the Most sought after five thirteens at The New, and deservedly so. This route is an absolute classic up some of the nicest sandstone I've ever seen. Start climbing up the easy slab for 25 feet to gain the start of the long series of crux moves up the perfect orange and black streaked face.
Crank the first thin crux to gain a rest on some jugs below the first roof. After a nice shake, crank up to the glued on (but original) hold to gain match on a big sloper. Crank up out the final roof with awesome positioning, eventually breaking out left and up to a two bolt station.
Location
Approach Dial from the honey mooners ladder heading up stream. Head straight around some big blocks to the base of the route. The climb to it's right is The Rascist, and the Arete to the left is Mississippi Burning.
It seems that this route should go under Snake Buttress and not Central Endless, though Snake Butress and several other areas could also go under Central Endless.
EDIT: Thanks for moving it.
By skinny legs and all From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 25, 2009 rating: 5.13a
I also think this route should be under the Snake Buttress area. Central Endless refers to a portion of Endless Wall that extends from the Honeymooner's Ladders east to the Jacob's Ladder climb out.
Areas that could be included under Central Endless include The Undeserved, Fantasy Roof, Honeymooner's Ladder, and Snake Buttress.
By skinny legs and all From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 25, 2009 rating: 5.13a
Extremely sequential, thin climbing. The lower portion of the route which leads to a horizontal break beneath the first roof felt around 12c. This section involved big reaches off of hand foot matches and ended with a large deadpoint. Rest at the break and psych yourself up for what lies ahead. A long lock off to the glued on flake and a hard clip off a slopey rail. Then the redpoint crux, a blind toss to a crimp over the second roof. Savor the easy slab above.
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