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Diamond Point
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Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses 
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Leave it to Jesus 
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Leave it to Jesus 

5.11c

   

FA: Cal Swoager, Stuart Kuperstock, 1985
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11c/d [details]
Length: 100 feet
Views: 620 page views

Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007


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Moving onto a rest stance. October, 2006.


Description 

This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect hand crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner (5.10?).


Location 

The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.


Protection 

The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic.



Add Photo Photos of Leave it to Jesus
Crux.

Crux.

Kenton stylin' the LITJ. NRABS as hell!

Kenton stylin' the LITJ. NRABS as hell!