Start below an overhanging orange pillar. Climb up to the pillar and follow a crack to its right (#3.5, #3 Camalot just below the pillar, orange TCU fits the crack on top of the pillar). From the top of the pillar (semi-rest) continue through the overhanging section. The crux move is pulling a sequence of flaring finger jams to finally some good holds at the top. Unless the conditions are dry (spring or fall) the crux jams are slimy and close to impossible.
Location
From the Tree Route follow the trail towards the South Bridge Wall. The trail initially goes down but soon starts up and arrives at the cliff near a distinct corner with Your Mother. Just around this corner is an alcove/pit with an overhanging orange face to the right. That's the climb.
Protection
Mid to small cams, TCU's. The crux can be protected with a bomber nut placement at the small overhang to the right (#9, #10 Metolius and similar). The crack next to the pillar is very slick so zip it up. I once fell before placing the bomber nut, pulled the TCU, and ended up close to a ground fall.
I agree with the protection comment about "zip it up" on the crack next the pillar. I once fell there and saw my red Camalot track 2 inches before holding the fall!
By furrymurry From: Washington D.C. Apr 6, 2009 rating: 5.11+
I don't see how anyone rated this climb "PG13," it protects extremely well throughout. Beautiful line.
Yep, super safe. If this seems scary, don't climb at bridge.
By camhead From: Columbus, OH Jul 2, 2009 rating: 5.11d
excellent climb, it is just sad that it stays so damp so much. By NRG standards this route is G rated, with very ample protection. It just depends on how much gas you are willing to burn by stopping to place gear.
Thank you for your contributions guys. Following the above posts I updated the rating and removed 'PG13'. Did it 10 years ago and at first attempt I pulled out a TCU and almost decked--hence my impression. I agree that the "zip it up" kinda contradicts "PG-13". I also appreciate your advice, Ben, but I'll continue to climb at the bridge when I'm in the area :)
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