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Dresden Corner 

5.11d R

   

FA: Mike Adams, 1986
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
Length: 80 feet
Views: 248 page views

Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Dresden Corner (5.11d R)


Description 

Awesome route. Protects pretty well with small TCU's and nuts all the way to the bolt. At the bolt there are some decent horizontal holds where it's possible to rest. From the bolt commit to the crux section. Unless you can stop in the middle of a 5.11+ lieback, placing gear is possible only after the crux. After the crux, 5.9 moves through or around the small roof finish the route.


Location 

The route follows a shallow dihedral just left of Marionette (but before the large alcove with Chockstone).


Protection 

Small TCU's or Aliens, small nuts.



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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 15, 2007

This climb is very intimidating, even on toprope.

By Kris Gorny
May 15, 2007

I did it on toprope first and figured out where the gear goes.

By Dan-o
May 2, 2008

This is one of my favorite routes at the New after climbing at here for 6 years. Just the right combo of overhang and perfectly spaced holds. Though the moves are amazing, the gear placements ARE intimidating.