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Beauty Mountain

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Brain, The 
Burning Buttress 
Garbage Wall 
Genocide Cave 
Middle Beauty 
Ram's Head 
Super Mario Boulder 
Thunder Buttress 

Beauty Mountain Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.0508, -81.03146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,178
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 11, 2007
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You & This Area
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Nuttalburg Mine Entrance. Follow the dirt road pa...

Description 

Awesome place to climb.

Became popular in the early 1980s, as one of the original climbing destinations in the NRG.Located in the north portion of the gorge it faces south-west and it 3/4mi long and averages 60 to 120 feet tall. Beauty is best known for its crack, but over the past 10 years many hard sport lines have been established here.

Ram's Head is a beautiful scenic overlook that inspires visitors that aren't climber to do the 15 min hike(a long hike for the NRG) to get the awesome views of the Lower New River.

Regarding parking: If there are open spots where the Williams guidebook designates, park here first and be mindful that it is a small parking area. Parking can be found along the dirt road as well, but this option should only be taken when the designated parking is full. Short approach either way.

Getting There 

Contiue past Nuttal and keep driving until you get to smallest Post office you've ever seen, take right contiue for 5 min, turn left on small gravel near top of cliff, hike in

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

68 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',20],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',7],['5.10',15],['5.11',13],['5.12',15],['5.13',7],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Beauty Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Beauty Mountain:
Happy Hands   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
Super Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad   Thunder Buttress
Rod Serling Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 75'   Burning Buttress
Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Burning Buttress
Burning Calves   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Burning Buttress
Spiderwand   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
Brain Tweezers   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Brain
Air   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Middle Beauty
Welcome to Beauty   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 120'   Ram's Head
Chasin' the Wind   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Middle Beauty
Steve Martin's Face   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Burning Buttress
Right Son of Thunder   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Thunder Buttress
M.E.N.S.A.   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   The Brain
Disturbance   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Genocide Cave
Concertina   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Thunder Buttress
Chunky Monkey   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   The Brain
Chorus Line   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   Burning Buttress
Gun Club   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Thunder Buttress
Green Envy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Genocide Cave
Super Mario   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 40'   Super Mario Boulder
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Beauty Mountain

Featured Route For Beauty Mountain
Rock Climbing Photo: Traversing right around the corner to the supremo ...

Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Burning Buttress
Follow the crack of Spider Wand for about 30 Ft. Traverse across the left facing corner to reach the hand crack on the right side of the arete. Climb the hand crack to the top. The traverse has some fun moves and the hand crack is a cruiser. If your are going to choose between Spider Wand and Wham Bam, Spider Wand has cooler moves pulling around the roof. This stays shady in the summer until about 1PM....[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Beauty Mountain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from beauty mtn. is beautiful.
The view from beauty mtn. is beautiful.
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Coal Tipple.  Follow the dirt road past the Su...
Old Coal Tipple. Follow the dirt road past the Su...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old Coal Conveyor.  Follow the dirt road past the ...
Old Coal Conveyor. Follow the dirt road past the ...

Comments on Beauty Mountain Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zach Buecker
From: Lander, WY
Oct 27, 2015
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot and hike in.

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