Englishman's Crack 

FA:  Reed, Howard '83 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 85 feet Views: 351 page views Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Ladd pulling the crux

Description 

Climb overhanging crack and finish on Easily Flakey.
1st 5.11 in the NEW and a proud one at that.

Start in the flaring off-width with wide hand-jams in the back of the crack. Work your way up to the stance underneath the roof/overhang, place your piece of choice to pull the crux. Pull the crux by either continuing hand jamming the offwidth-ness of the crack, or throw a heel in there and mantle off of the crimps out right and stab for the pod to the left of the crack. Throw in a hand jam, pull one las hard move and traverse one move left to the mini-ledge out left and clip (or don't) the rusty bad 1/8" bolt. Finish up Easily Flakey with #3 + #4 cams.

Location 

route immediately right of easily flakey at obvious overhanging hand/fist crack

Protection 

WIDE!!!
Good Pro, a little hard to place and not get super pumped

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BETA PHOTO: Englishman's Crack (5.11b).

If you look very closely...I think I might have so...