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Angel's Arete 

5.10a R

   

FA: Swoager, Artz '85
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 70 feet
Views: 546 page views

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Angel's Arete (5.10).


Description 

Crux is the mind game (and the weird weight transfer) when rocking over onto the arete.
Climb the UBER-fun blunt arete that makes for a super fun toprope and a lead that you do and NEVER repeat


Location 

Arete right of Zag.


Protection 

not enough pro
NOT A LEAD FOR THE FAINT-HEARTED!!

Maybe on your toprope it'll look like there is enough gear, but the gear would take up your only holds, once those small horizontals are filled what are you going to do?



Photos of Angel's Arete Slideshow Add Photo
A washed out Angels Arete

BETA PHOTO: A washed out Angels Arete

Zag and Angels Arete

BETA PHOTO: Zag and Angels Arete


Comments on Angel's Arete Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
From: Short Circuit
Apr 11, 2007

I have to say, I'm no runout champ and I was pleasantly surprised by the pro. Guess it all depends on your expectations.

By Brian Adzima
From: Boulder CO
Apr 24, 2007

I did not lead it, but my partner wsa repeating it. THe pro was all there, but seemed to envolved equalized nuts and other errta

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 9, 2007

There are a few decent equalized placements and a few micro wires, however there is nothing for the last 20+ feet of the climb.

By Kris Gorny
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.10a R

There used to be a pin placed in a horizontal crack higher up -- just past the crux to the right of the arete. Last year I didn't see it. Also, I used to place iffy RP's behind a small detached flake to the left of the arete but that thing is now moving.