Past the lower section, getting set for the crux a...
Description
My favorite climb at Bridge Buttress.
Start off on a wet jug, move into thin tips laybacking in the buldging corner. At the top of the corner is a slam dunk move out right to a sloper then traverse one move left onto good jugs and place your first pro(17ft). The crux is next and it is pulling out of the mini-roof, a small nut in the bottom finger lock won't get in the way, place it from the good holds below. Punch it out of the crux with an airy deadpoint to a great jug where you place your biggest passive pro and a bomber chock in the jug/crack(some people even bring a big hex just for this. Fight the pump to the top and work the good hands to their end, they get sharp and strange at the very top. Bolt Anchor 10 ft short of the top (4th class with exposure)
Beware, no gear that will hold a fall until 16-19ft consider bringing and bouldering pad to protect leader for ground fall before s/he gets any gear
Location
Route is shaded. Three routes left of Jaws and two right from Chockstone. Obvious hard trad line.
Protection
see above rest of the route has bomber BIG passive pro. Sometimes people bring up a slung rock from the base to protect the big tread above the crux(dark spot at center-top of the photo). A big cow-bell(Hex) would work also. The top of the route people usually just run out, but if you want a #1-#2 would do nicely to protect the uppper section(much easier).
On my send I used (in order) #2 BD in 1st hornizontal #6 BD nut in 1st fingerlock Black Tri-cam (definitely should have used bigger it was very tipped out) placed passive in the jug 10 ft above the crux. Blue Alien above the mono jug (flaring, but pretty solid...maybe... but might have only held body weight, What...I was desperate for gear!) Yellow Alien in the Horizontal just above that, weird placement, thank goodness for flexible stems on cams Red Alien in the last horizontal (bomber piece)
Punch it to the anchors and don't fall off those last sloping crimps...
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jul 6, 2007
Well, my original plan was to get a bouldering pad to protect the fall off the bottom moves before the pro in the horizontal, but I had a friend down from Connecticut and I decided to go for it sans pad, and sent, so happy I did the climb in good style, accepting the risk and committing...
It started raining right after I sent and hasn't stopped since (2.5 days).
Bridge Buttress
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