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Endless Wall

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Cirque, The 
Diamond Point 
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 
Fantasy Area 
Fern Cirque 
Fern Point 
Fern Point - Party Buttress 
Flash Point Area 
Hellbound Area 
Honeymooner's Area 
Idol Point 
Jacob's Ladder Area 
Kaymoor Slabs 
Kline Wall 
Mungolian Wall, The 
Scream Seam Area 
Snake Buttress 
Undeserved Area, The 

Endless Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.05508, -81.05767 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 105,033
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
You & This Area
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Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With almost 5 miles of unbroken cliff, breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to downright nasty beasts that require you to be a mutant to climb them. Routes range from 50 to over 100 feet in length. Sun and shade can be found, along with a few select rainy day options- most of those require considerable skill, however.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted number 1 hiking trail in a national park in the US it's getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues. Especially parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed!

Getting There 

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (fern creek), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge (fern creek), and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set, the Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle of Endless wall at Snake Buttress.

From Fern Point to the Cirque is below. Climbers left to right.
Fern Point (ladder)
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Fern Cirque
Idol Point
Kaymoor Slabs
Flash Point Area
Diamond Point
Hellbound Area
Snake Buttress (ladder)
Scream Seam Area
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Fantasy Area
The Undeserved Area
Kline Wall
Jacob's Ladder Area
The Mungolian Wall
Cirque (ladder)

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.2 miles from here

198 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',48],['3 Stars',84],['2 Stars',52],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Endless Wall:
Fantasy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   Fantasy Area
Black and Tan   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   Fantasy Area
Remission   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Diamond Point
Party in My Mind   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
Strike A Scowl   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Diamond Point
Legacy   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Mellifluous   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Fern Point
Discombobulated   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 90'   Snake Buttress
Aesthetica   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fantasy Area
Leave it to Jesus   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 80'   Diamond Point
Freaky Stylee   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Fern Point - Party Buttress
New World Order   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Jesus and Tequila    5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Honeymooner's Area
Bullet the New Sky   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   Snake Buttress
Quinsana Plus   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Honeymooner's Area
Skylore Engine   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 95'   The Cirque
Dial 911   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Snake Buttress
The Racist   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Snake Buttress
Ride The Lightning   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   The Cirque
Proper Soul   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   The Cirque
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Endless Wall

Featured Route For Endless Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: No bolt here!!!!

Party in My Mind 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Fern Point - Party Buttress
Climb the steep face to the bolt. Diagonal up slightly left and then slightly right. The wall is steeper than it appears. Good gear for most of the climb, but it get's a bit sparse near the top but the climbing gets easier. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Endless Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015
Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 3, 2015
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly.
By Zach Buecker
From: Lander, WY
Oct 27, 2015
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above...
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 27, 2015
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt.
By Ted Pinson
From: Chicago, IL
May 28, 2016
Why do I get the impression you guys are just saying that so you'll have the wall to yourselves? :p

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