Great slab trad lead and a must do for those who consider themselves a slab climber. Most of the route once you get out of the crack is sequency and follows little edges up to biger holds.
This is frequently toproped and seldom led due to the fall potential if you don't place good pro just under the crux (FYI place a #5 nut)
Location
Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.
Protection
Good gear down low, 30 ft up it gets a bit runout, make sure to protect as high as you can off lower jugs just before the crux.
The 5.10a slab left of New River Gunks is pretty cool. Solid gear protects the crux and from experiance I know it will hold a fall or three. As I recall this climb is alittle easier fo tall folks.
By Nick Stayner From: Tuolumne Meadows, CA Sep 4, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Don't be afraid of this one! You can place a piece (or three) from a great stance and move through. Classic one-move wonder.
A fairly unimpressive 1 move wonder. Just cause you can climb it doesn't mean you can climb 10s on gear. In the olden days this would classify as a 5.9+.