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Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS 
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Team Jesus 

5.10a PG13

   

FA: Swoager, Cox '85
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 65 feet
Views: 224 page views

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007


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BETA PHOTO: Team Jesus


Description 

Great slab trad lead and a must do for those who consider themselves a slab climber.
Most of the route once you get out of the crack is sequency and follows little edges up to biger holds.

This is frequently toproped and seldom led due to the fall potential if you don't place good pro just under the crux (FYI place a #5 nut)


Location 

Just left of New River Gunks, just right of the distortionist, on huge flake.


Protection 

Good gear down low, 30 ft up it gets a bit runout, make sure to protect as high as you can off lower jugs just before the crux.



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By Brian Adzima
From: Boulder CO
Apr 24, 2007

The 5.10a slab left of New River Gunks is pretty cool. Solid gear protects the crux and from experiance I know it will hold a fall or three. As I recall this climb is alittle easier fo tall folks.

By Nick Stayner
From: Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Sep 4, 2007
rating: 5.10b

Don't be afraid of this one! You can place a piece (or three) from a great stance and move through. Classic one-move wonder.

By Jeremy Steck
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Oct 8, 2007

Don't let the gear deter you from leading this route. You are near the gear when making the crux move. A great route!

By Jesse Morehouse
Jun 15, 2008
rating: 5.10a

A fairly unimpressive 1 move wonder. Just cause you can climb it doesn't mean you can climb 10s on gear. In the olden days this would classify as a 5.9+.