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Handsome and Well-Hung 

5.11a

   

FA: Pliess, Augustino '83
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 386 page views

Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007


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Ladd pulling the last moves above the crux.


Description 

Beautiful route.
This route climbs the amazing looking corner under the roof. Very tenuous moves stemming in the corner with small gear and finger locks/laybacks just out of reach. This route has a beginning, middle(crux) and end.

Crux of this climb is moving off a thin layback pinching a high undercling and deadpointing up and left with no feet. Smearing high and bumping up an right to a pinch then leaving your now comfortable undercling to get a jug way up there. Throw in a hand-jam and remember to breathe before finishing the 5.8+ moves to the anchors.


I got on the front page of the Register Herald 7/24/07(Beckley, WV) for leading this climb. Ladd Raine 'busting a move'


Location 

Obvious corner under huge roof at trailhead.


Protection 

1-3 inchers in the bottom section to small cams (blue-yellow aliens) through the crux. The upper section takes green aliens and protects well.

Lower from anchors.



Add Photo Photos of Handsome and Well-Hung
Ladd just entering the crux

Ladd just entering the crux

Just past the crux. Circa '97.

Just past the crux. Circa '97.

Jeff making the reach on Handsome and Well-Hung...

Jeff making the reach on Handsome and Well-Hung...


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 22, 2007

I took a 10 foot or so fall on this one the other day on my blue alien, man I love that piece...