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Nuria Anguita-Bates setting up for the crux and lo...
Starts with 5.11- crimps and continues up to second bolt, then switches to 5.10+ big moves on drity jugs with bad feet until you get back into 5.11- laybacks on sharp crimps then in the rux section where you have to squeeze the juice out of a sloper with your left hand and stand up on your right foot (hip height) to gain a crimp that you can feel comfotable with. then pull up to no-hands rest and relax because you are about to pump out again on the slippery upper slab section(5.10+ 5.11-). Pull one especially reachy move on the slab to gain a better hold and clip the anchors from a decent ledge.
Second fully bolted sport climb west of access stairs, just left of Team Machine.
6 Bolts to bolted anchor.
Nuria Anguita-Bates on the scary upper slab crux.
By Aaron Moses
From: Abingdon, Va
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Some very nice face climbing on the first half, but the upper slab isn't nearly as good as it's neighbor. I did the crux differently than the description by matching the sloper then face climbing straight up without any high steps. Still no hard than 12a.