JunkYard Dog (JYD) 

FA:  Horst, Evler '87 Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  1 pitch, 75 feet Views: 149 page views Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: JunkYard Dog

Description 

Bolts (and nasty pitons) protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.

Unbelieveably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.

Location 

Just right of New River Gunks on East side of Giant Flake

Protection 

A bolt and crap pitons for bottom section
bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.