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Junkyard Wall
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Ann's Revenge 
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Cave Routes 1 and 2 
Churning in the Huecos 
Contortionist, The 
Distortionist, The 
Entertainer, The 
Enteruptus 
Four Sheets to the Wind 
Jumping Jack Flash 
JunkYard Dog (JYD) 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS 
Mr. Ed 
New River Gunks 
New Yosemite 
Nine Lives 
Rapscallion's Blues 
Reachers of Habit 
Reaching New Heights (New River Gunks Direct) 
Realignment (Entertainer direct), The 
Rhododenema 
Scott's Turf Builder 
Stuck In Another Dimension 
Team Jesus 
V-Slot 
Yew Nosemite 

JunkYard Dog (JYD) 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Horst, Evler '87
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 10, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: JunkYard Dog

Description 

Bolts (and nasty pitons) protect the bottom cruxy moves, then continue up sparse crack systems to gain the crux transition into the upper portion of New River Gunks.

Unbelieveably fun moves up the bottom part, and perfect vertical hard crack climbing above.

Super-fun, this route deserves more attention.


Location 

Just right of New River Gunks on East side of Giant Flake


Protection 

A bolt and crap pitons for bottom section
bomber red alien and #7 nut below crux, run out until almost at anchors.
Anchors are hard to find on lower ledge right of New River Gunks anchors and down a little.



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By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Aug 21, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Just climbed this and was able to find some nut placements and a red tcu spot up high. No way this is PG-13.

By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Jun 12, 2013

Not pg13. Or 11c. I just finished on the New River Gunks anchors. Fun, but super short.